S B 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Shelf ,vn^. 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



4 





BItllSltlttI 




DAVID R. WOODS. 



PRESENTED BY 

THOMAS ELVERSON, • 

NEW BRIGHTON, PA. 



J. Sargeant Hoopes, Print, New Brighton. 



Entered aecordiug to an Act 
BY i:)A\"li> 
in tlie office ot the Librariaji oi 



ui Congre^-. in the year 1S50. 
l ongress at \Va>hington. D. C. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The love lor and admiration of Flowers is universal all 
through the ages that are numbered with the past. They have 
merited and received homage from mankind. In Bacred Writ 
Matthew writes of the lilies of tlie field, " that Solomon in all 
his glory was not arrayed like one of these." Poets have sung 
of them ; artists have transferred their beauty to canvass ; but 
there remained for the Gardener the arduous but pleasant duty 
of caring for them. There is perhaps no business which re- 
quires such a varied knowledge nor such close attention as 
that of a Florist. The varieties of Plants in cultivation are 
so numerous, and their culture in many particulars so widely 
different, that it is impossible in a small book to give all the 
information that has taken us years to acquire ; much of it is 
of no importance to the amateur, for whom this is written. 
We propose in this to give our experience — what we k^ioir : r,i\ 
what we have pmc^wed for years. We are writing it for the 
masses of the American People, so it shall be written in plain, 
homely English, without any endeavor to make it gorgeous 
with words that few can comprehend without the kindly aid 
of an unabridged dictionary. We hope the reader will value 
this work, not in proportion to the size of it nor to the number 
of words it contains, but in proportion to the information to 
be derived from a careful perusal of its contents. We will be 
as brief as possible without omitting anything that may en- 
hance its value. That this shower of Dew Drops may be con- 
ducive to the revival of Famishing Flowers is the hope of 

The Author. 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 



Introduction 1 

CHAPTER I. 

Soils for Potting 5 

CHAPTER II. 

Pots and Potting 8 

CHA PTEH III. 

Temperature and Moisture .14 

CHAPTER IV. 

Insects Ifi 

CHAPTER V. 

Winter Blooming Plants 26 

CHAPTER VI. 

Winter Protection 29 

CHAPTER VII. 
Aquariums and Ferneries 31 

CHAPTER VIII. 

The Window Garden 85 

CHAPTER IX. 

Hanging Baskets 39 

CHAPTER X. 

Bulbs 42 

CHAPTER XI. 

Ventilation and Light 46 

CHAPTER XII. 
Plants by Mail and Express 49 

CHAPTER XIII. 
In t^ie Garden 52 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Planting of Flower Beds 57 

CHAPTER XV. 
Sowing the Seed and Management of Seedlings 62 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Specific Directions for the Culture of Plants and Bulbs 65 



5 



CHAPTER I. 

SOILS FOR POTTING. 
Some years ago it was believed by many that certain 
Plants required a certain compost in which to grow, and that 
they ivou^d not grow in any thing save this one particular 
preparation. Many of the Florists in this country, but more 
in the older countries, still maintain that unless Silver Sand 
is used, cuttings cannot be rooted with any great degree of 
success, and if anything but Peat and Silver Sand is used for 
potting Camellias, Azalias and Hkc plants, they will not do 
well. This might have been believed up to the present time, 
if all Plant Culturists had lived where these tvv^o ingredients 
were in abundance, but this was not the case, and from ne- 
cessity some were compelled to trj^ t o grow these and kindred 
plants in other composts, and the success nttendi ng these 
trials exceeded their highest hopes. We confess that plants 
rfo &c?6c'e/- in a soil suited to their wants than in one not con- 
genial to their nature, but it is ridiculous or ncnsensici.l to 
argue that they will not grow and do comparatively well in 
another composition, provided of course that the other com- 
position is not directly opposed to what their nature demancss. 
An eminent Florist whom we highly respect, clainis to use 
but one compost, and grows a I h 's 2^:anis equally vrell in it, 
but he ^^on'f grow aZZ ^iTifZs of plants, and he has every oppor- 
tunity to satisfy the cravings of the plants in all other re- 
spects, which would at least to a considerable extent counter- 
act the effect of an unsuitable foLI. To the amateur, who al- 
most universally labors under a host of disadvantages, it is 
necessary that he, to be successful, must take advantage of 
every point; hence we describe the different substances that 
are generally used for Potting soils, and in our Specific Direc- 
tions we tell 3'ou v/hat preparation our experience has taughr 
us to be the most suitable for the different plants when croirn 
in pots. If the comfosition vre recommend is not readily cb- 



6 



tainable, approximate it as nearly as you can^ and you will 
have landed pretty safely on one of the stepping stones to 
success. 

Leaf Soil is not half-rotted wood, but is ^7? or aw^cAfy decom- 
posed leaves. It is easily obtainable in the forest, can be- 
found in the valleys or in hollow places where the winds have 
blown the leaves. Scrape off the top and you will get the 
deposits of former years. It is very rich and invigorating. 

Peat is a black or nearlj^ black soil found in swamps and 
other low places ; is very rich in vegetable fibre and as a rule 
contains some sand. Where it cannot conveniently be ob- 
tained, leaf soil will prove a good substitute. 

Manttees Xo manures are suitable for potting purposes 
until they are at le'ist half dec :iyed (such as have been used in 
a hot bed) they are better when they are sufficiently decom- 
posed as to sift without much difficulty. 

Sand should be free from all foreign substances; if it is 
not, it can be washed by putting it in a tub or some other 
vessel, and rinsing it through several waters. The ladies will 
understand what we mean by this. 

Moss from the woods or sphagnum from the swamps is 
very good to mix in the compost for Ferns, Pitcher Plants, 
Orchids, etc. It should be torn or chopped into small pieces 
before using, and be mixed In the soil. 

LiOAM. This word is often used to mean quite different 
•substances ; we intend it to mean in this case rotted sods and 
totted manure prepared as follows : In the spring, or at any 
•other convenient time, cut from an old pasture field, on the 
Toadside or anj'where you can get them, sods ; cut them small 
enough to handle convenientlj', and about two inches thick ; 
iay them in a heap, grassy sides together; between each alter- 
nate layer of sods put one layer of manure ; (cow dung is best) 
in a few months chop as best you can with a spade, and mix 
the compost thoroughly; the heap should be turned and 
mixed several times during the season, until it becomes fria- 
ble, when it is ready for use. 

The reader may think it will cost considerable time and 
may be some funds to have a small supply of these soils on 
hand, but thej' can be obtained at odd times in spare moments 
ihat might not be otherwise used to advantage, and we feel 



eonfldent that the enthusiastic eulturlst will have them.. 
They caa be mixed to suit the requirements of any plant. By 
referring to our Specific Directions you will discover what pro- 
portion to use of each of the above substances. For instance, 
we may say loam eight, sand one, peat one ; this means eight 
parts of loam, and one part each of sand and peat will be the- 
soil in which this plant should be grown. 



8 



CHAPTER n. 

POTS AND POTTING. 
We desire to say a few words in re^^ard to the pots or vessels 
in wliich plants are grown, before we proceed to the operation 
of potting. We know that thousands of ])\ants, annually sicken 
and die because the vessels in which ihey are grown are not 
suitable. We are aw^are that in many sections of the 
country pots such as florists use are not to be obtained without 
a great deal of trouble, hence, as soon as plants require 
potting they are put in tin cans, glazed stoneware, boxes, old 
paint buckets, and in fact anj^thing that is handy that will 
hold earth and water. We wish to enter our protest just here 
by saying that nearly all plants require air at the roots, conse- 
quently such treatment is radically wrong ajid positively injuri- 
ous. The above statement is the rule, but certainly there are 
exceptions to it. Some plants will live in water ; tlie^ will not 
object to growing in anything that will supply their particular 
wants; if this want be water, then grow" them in something 
that will contain water; if the want is air, then they must be 
grown in a porous vessel, that will admit a copious supply 
of air. 

The best pot is the kind most Florists use. They are made 
from the finest fire clay, made in moulds, and are *' turned on 
a jigger;" this mode is superior to the old way of " pressing" 
as by this mode the pot remains porous, while by the old way 
the clay was made quite solid and only very slightly porous. 
The pots are then burned to a brick red ; if burned any harder 
than this the clay vitrifies, and all the pores are closed ; these 
pots, when burnt harder than usual, are used for Aquatic 
plants, but for most plants they are but little better than a 
wooden box or tin can. 

Anticipate the needs of 3'our plants, and have some of these 
pots on hand for the plants you have or those you ma^' buy. 
When it is utterly- impossible to get pots of the above descrip- 
tion, it then becomes necessary to use a substiiute. We 
would advise that the bottom of the vessel used be perforated 
with a number of small holes, say }/i inch in diameter and not 
more than an inch apart. We prefer wooden boxes of suitable 



9 



sizes for small plants, cigar boxes cut iu two or three equal 
parts will answer. 

Drainage. We advocate drainage, and claim that it is 
beneficial to plant-life, when plants are in larger than wha t 
is called a four-inch pot. The reader, Avho has perused other 
works on this subject, may fear that we are now getting into 
hot water and may demand our reasons for making such a 
statement. Well, suppose we own apiece of low ground in a 
town er village ; it is surrounded by an <^mbankment from 
five to ten feet high ; when it rains our ground is covered with 
water, which will not drain off for several weeks. \ye say to 
our friend the "no drainage " florist, we will allow .3'Ou to use 
that piece of ground for planting out all your flowers. His re- 
ply would be, " I don't want it." Why? "Because the water 
does not drain off." We repl^' that it does ; that all the land 
surrounding mine is higher, and the water drains off int^ 
that, and some goes into the clayey subsoil, and in a few 
weeks the water will all be gone. " Yes, that is true ; but it 
don't drain oHfast etiou'jh, and before the water is all gone the 
soil is sour, and if my plants were in it they would be injured 
if not destroyed ; the roots on many of them would rot in that 
time.** The above would undoubtedly be in substance the re- 
plies of the " no drainage " florist, yet it is only going to the 
extreme to show the absurdity of his doctrine. Had we said 
to him he could have the ground for planting out his Callas, 
Caladium Esculentum and like plants, the offer (had he needed 
the ground) would have been accepted. The fact is, if . ther^ 
is no drainage, or if the drainage is defective, the water' does 
not psiss iwYixy f'Ast enoLigJi. 

We have seen in green-houses where the roof was not 
thoroughly wftter-proof, after a long, heavy rain, some of the 
pots in Avhich plants were growing filled to the rim with 
water, which did not pass av/ay for more than 48 hours. The 
pot was porous, but the pores were filled up with muddy 
water, so that it was difficult for the water to filter thro.iigh* 
and by remaining so long in the pot would be injurious", to 
ninety-nine plants out of one hundred. 

For plants in small pots, drainage is not essential to their 
welfare, because the pot does not contain but a very small 
amount of soil, and at the most there is but little water in the 
pot, which will drain off in a short time, even though the pot 
be not porous, if there is a hole in the bottom of it. But for 



10 



plants in larj^e poti, good and sufficient drainage should be 
provided, and especially so for such as are grown in tin cans, 
boxes, buckets, tubs, glazed earthenware, old kettles, etc., be^ 
cause when the soil is thoroughly saturated all tlie air is ex- 
pelled, and as the water evaporates the air again enters the 
soil; hence if air is necessary for the roots of plants, and if 
when the soil is saturated with water there is no air in it 
jihould we not supply a channel or series of channels in the 
shape of drainage, by which the fluid may pass off rapidly and 
permit the liealth-giving air to enter without unnecessary 
delay. It is almost as absurd to claim that the surplus water 
will pass oft' through the pores of the larger pots in a sufficient- 
ly short space of time to do no Injury to the plants, as It would 
be to claim that the fluids we take Into our body will all pass 
off through the pores of our skin and we not suffer any in 
consequence of our involuntary retention of these fluids. We 
think we have said enough on this subject to convince the 
reader that It will be better to use drainage. W© may touch 
on it again in the chapter on Temperature and Moisture. 

Potting. In a previous chapter we have enumerated the 
ingredients that will form soils for potting. If the plants are 
small the soli should be pulverized, either chopped or crushed 
so there will be no lumps to break or bruise the tender young 
toots. For most rooted cuttings a pot two Inches high and the 
same In diameter will be sufficiently large. Geraniums, 
Feverfew, and a few other plants, If very well rooted, will re- 
quire a two and one-half or three Inch pot, but for the great 
majority a two Inch pot win suit. Our mode of potting is as 
follows: The pots and soil ready, the cuttings (when roeted) 
are taken from the cutting bed and carried to a bench or table 
In the potting room ; we then take the pot, fill it about one- 
fourth to one-third full of soil, then place the stem of the 
plant In the center of the pot, allowing the roots to touch the 
soil In the pot; we fill in all around until the pot might be 
said to be filled to overflowing ; then with the thumbs com- 
press the soil, leaving a space of about one-third of an Inch 
from the top of the pot to the surface, to hold water. When 
large pots are used for repotting, leave more space, say for a 
four Inch pot leave one-half inch space, and for a ten or twelve 
Inch pot, one and one-half Inches. Some operators begin to 
pot cuttings by filling the pot with soli, then punch a hole in 
the loose soli with the finger, and push the roota Into this 



11 



hole, it being perhaps not more than three-fourths of an inch 
in diameter; the soil is then pressed down and the hole is 
thus filled; a gentle tap on the side of the pot with the- 
knuckles, and the operation is complete. We claim that our 
mode is superior for these reasons: The natural tendency of 
the root is downward and spreading. The cutting sends out 
its roots all around in search of nourishing food; when it is 
taken from its bed common sense will tell us its roots should 
be allowed to remain as nearlj' as possible in every respect in 
the same position, viz : Pointing downward and spreading; this 
can be accomplished by the mode we practice, but not by the 
other, because in the first place, the hole made by the finger is 
too small in most instances to admit the roots without bend- 
ing the points of them, consequently they must he pushed into 
the hole; hence they will point upward, which is unnatural. 

2d. By the mode of procedure by which the hole is closed up; 
the roots, instead of being allowed their natural spreading 
habit, are crushed together; and although in the hands of the 
skillful operator the plants will grow and in course of time 
flourish, it will take some time to overcome this unnatural 
and consequently wroug mode of treatment. The practical 
florist may say our mode consumes more time. Our reply is, 
try it and see for yourself ; if it does, (which we deny) the greater 
success attending our mode would more than compensate for 
it. The object in pressing the soil rather solidly in the pot 
(now we don't mean to maKe it hard) is that the young roots 
may "catch hold" of the soil and obtain nourishment from it 
at once, instead of being compelled to go in search of the soil 
before the plant can receive any food whatever. We now sup- 
pose the plant to be In a two inch pot; it must have a thorough 
watering; that is, the space from the surface of the soil to the 
rim of the pot should be filled with water ; this may be done 
either at the potting table or after it has been placed where it 
is to grow, for the time at least. 

We now come to the process of " shifting." that is, changing 
the plants into pots of a larger or smaller size. When a plant 
has been growin^j^in a pot that is large for it, florists say it Is 
*' over-potted ;" if the pot is too small, it is "pot-bound/^ 
When you wish to discover if the plant needs a larger pot, turn 
the plant top side down, just as a lady would a cake or piece of 
pastry to get it out of a mould, and placing the stem of the 
plant between the first and second fingers of the open hand,. 



12 



with the other hand raise the pot and lap the rim of it on the 
edge of a solid substance; as a rule one or two taps willloosen 
the roots from the sides of the pot, when ihe ball of earth will 
fall into the operator's open hand. If the ball of rarth refuses 
to come ou". Avith two or three taps, give the plant a thorough 
watering and allow it to stand until the water drains off, when 
it can be removed quite easilj', and by the way, it is better that 
the ball of earth be quite moist, for if it is dry the roots' will 
cling to the pot and may be broken, and the soil being dry, it 
will crumble and fall to pieces, thereby disturbing the roots 
and oftentimes breaking them. ' " 

It is not necessary- to give a larger pot until the roots be- 
come pretty well matted around the ball'of earth, yet it should 
not be allowed to remain in the pot until the tender Avhite 
succulent roots become brown and hard, or ''woody." If, ac- 
cording to the above, the plant needs a large pot, select, if the 
plant is of slow growth or ''hard Avooded " (such as Camelias, 
Azaleas, Daphne, etc.,) a pot one size larger"; if the 
plant is ■' soft wooded " (Gera,niums, Fuchias, etc.,) a pot two 
sizes larger will do just as well. Fill the pot to the deiDth of 
one inch or more, according to the size of pot, with broken 
pots, pieces of bricks, or anything that water will readily drain 
through, put in a little soil and then pui the pia.nl in the 
centre of the pot, fill up the space between the ball of earth in 
which the plant has been growing and the side of the pot wiCh 
soil ; press it in solidlj^ with the thumbs or a stick, give the 
bottom of the pot a sharp rap on the potting table and the op- 
eration is complete. 

If plants are in pots larger than necessary-, take them put 
of the pots, carefulhj shake all the soil from the roots and wash 
them in clean water and re-pot in as small a pot as will, hold 
the roots. without crowding them; use great care in re-potting, 
so that the roots may not be broken. If there is much tops on 
the plant they should be shortened until the roots begin to 
work in the new soil; this shortening process will encoumge a 
strong young growth. When, after their season of blooming 
is over, Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and all other plants that 
should be cut back, as soon as thoy have started to make a new 
growth, they should be treated the same as plants that have 
been over-potted, inasmuch as they have not the same tops 
and flowers to support for the time being, they will not need 
so much pot room. Plants that have been growing in the 



13 



garden, when potted should be ssvei-ely cut back, and the 
branches and foliage thinned out;. Pot in as small pots as the 
roo^s will admit of; give one thorough watering, afterward 
keep the foliage sprinkled but the roots rather dry, until the 
plants begin to grow. 

We believe we have only one more caution to add to com- 
plete this chapter. When re-potting, the plant should not be 
buried any deeper In the soil than it has been ; give the roots 
the additional food in the bottom and around the sides of the 
pot: they don't need it on the surface. 




14 



CHAPTER III. 

TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 
Temperature is a subject which demands our especial at- 
tention. Many cases of failure in plant culture result from an 
uncongenial temperature ; it is too high or too low. Tke effect 
of too high a temperature will soon be visible in the weak, 
sickly growth of the plant; and some plants, Camellias for in- 
stance, will drop their flower buds; if the temperature is too 
low. the plant ceases to grow and the foliage drops off. There 
must be sufficient heat to excite the roots into action: all 
plants will grow better if the roots are five degrees warmer 
than the atmosphere in which the plants are growing, as it 
produces a strong sturdy top growth that is always desirable. 
Many practical florists fail in the production of cut flowers in 
winter because the tops of the plants are warmer than the 
roots, thus exciting a growth at the tops whicii the roots in 
their semi-dormant condition cannot support, consequently 
the growth must necessarily be weak, Und the result is no 
flowers, or perhaps a few may be produced, but tliey are poor, 
colorless, and very pitiable looking. Especially is this the 
case when the plants are not in pots but are planted out in 
the green house in a great body of soil, that it is rather diffi- 
cult to heat. The mode of heating must be governed by cir- 
cumstances »nd surroundings. Few of us would like to put 
an oil blast stove in our bay windows; an alcohol lamp 
would look better, and sufficient heat would be generated by 
It; in very cold weather It might require two such lamps; in 
a small conservatory the oil stove w^ould be decidedly prefera- 
ble. But the. great majority of plant growers have neither 
bay windows or conservatories, and their plants must be 
cared for. They receive as a rule iust such treatment as can 
be given them, without in the least discommoding the occu- 
pants of the room or suite or rooms in which the plants may 
be growing; as a rule the temperature is too high during the 
day and too low during the night, and the plants in most in- 
stances look very badly. One cause for this is the owner does 
not know what heat the plants require. In the after part of 
this book, among other things, we propose to give this infor- 
mation; having acquired this knowledge, the culturist will be 



!3 

better prepared to give the plants more appropriate places, as 
some parts in rooms are warmer than others, they will be oc- 
cupied by the plants requiring a higher temperature, while 
the now vacant cooler places will be occupied by the plants 
from the temperate zones. Plants that are grown in the 
window, where they might possibly get frosted, will be greatly- 
protected at night if papers are spread over them ; if perchance 
they should be frozen, plu.nge the tops in a tub of cold water 
and in a few minutes the frost will all have been extracted ; if 
this cannot be done, place them where the sun cannot strike 
them, and allow them with the rising temperature of the 
room to gradually thaw out; in either case they should be 
shaded from sunlight for several hours after the frost is all 
gone. As we stated above, we will give the temperature in 
which plants of the different species w^ll flourish, A variation 
of a few degrees either higher or lower will not materiallj^ in- 
iure them, especially if the temperature is higher and is 
caused by sun keat^ still Jwe recommend as nearly as pos- 
sible the heat indicated. It must be understood that the tem- 
perature we give Is for cold weather, say from October to May, 
earlier and later a«i the climate may demand. It is impossible 
to keep the temperature in a house down to sixty degrees if 
the heat outside is ninety degrees : however, we can put these 
plants in a shady place, which will be more agreeable to them, 

MoiSTURB. Plants need moisture, not water. A soil that 
is suitable to grow plants in is composed of innumerable 
minute particles of earth, kept ieparated by an equally large 
number of air spaces. The object in pulverizing the soil is to 
reduce a hard, solid masis of earth to numerous small par- 
ticles, and render the soil very porous. The object in making 
the soil comparatively firm after potting is to make the air 
spaces or pores small and very numerous. When a plant has 
been watered these air chambers are filled with water, and so 
long as the water remains the roots of the plants cannot work, 
because the particular food is absent, but as soon as the water 
drains off (and this is why we advocate drainage) the air made 
moist on its passage through the soil fills these air chambers 
with a moisture from which the plant draws its main support . 
If this be true, and we have had sufficient evidence to prove to 
our entire satisfaction that it is true, is it not absolutely neces 
sary that we provide channels whereby this surplus water can- 



16 



pass away, just as soon as all the earth in the pot has been 
moistened by it. 

We have oftentimes been asked by amateur culturists 
" How often should plants be watered." Our repl3' has invaria- 
bly been " just as often as they become dry." We will define 
as best we can what is meant hy the word dry. Sometimes 
we speak of a thing as being " as dry as dust." To allow the 
soil in which plants are growing to get to that degree of dry- 
ness is almost sure death ; it certainly is to most hard-wooded 
plants, while its effect on soft- wooded plants would be to stag- 
nate their growth. Perhaps we can better define the word by 
comparison . The word dri/ (the appropriate time for watering j 
bears the same relation to dried or parched (as moist does to 
saturate.) A little experience will greatly assist in determin- 
ing if water is required, but until the reader has had this ex- 
perience, we must give a little more information. Take two 
pots of the same size and fill both with dry soil ; saturate the 
soil in one of them with water, then with the knuckles strike 
c^he sides of the pets alternately, and observe the difference in 
the sounds produced; this tapping may be repeated a number 
of times, until yon become pretty familiar \vith the sound, 
then by testing the pots in which your plants are growing you 
can readily decide which to water; these should receive a 
sufficient amount of water to moisten all the soil, and should 
not be watered again until the soil is in the same condition it 
was prior to having been watered. 

Rain water is considered the best for watering plants, be- 
cause oftentimes spring or well water contains too much 
foreign substances, such as minerals, alkalies, etc., which 
might prove injurious to the tender roots of many plants. 
While it is better that water for plants should be about the 
same temperature as the atmosphere in which the plants are 
growing, it does not matter to ten or fifteen degrees, in ismuch 
as that even though the water be ten degrees cooler than the 
air in the room, when it is applied to the plants, in fifteen 
minutes the earth in the pot will be of the same temperature 
by the absorption of heat from the atmosphere, as it was before 
the water was applied. If the watering by cooler water kept 
the earth for hours cooler than the temperature in the house, 
then such a plan would prove injurious to some extent, but 
for only a few minutes no serious results can follow. 



17 



Thus far we have only alluded to moisture at the roots ; 
we now wish to call your attention to moisture in the atmos- 
phere in which plants are grown. There are many plants 
such as the Cacti and succulents, that will flourish admirably 
in a dry atmosphere, but nearly all plants of rapid growth and 
those that carry a great quantity of foliage, require a moist 
atmosphere. This may be produced in different ways ; first by 
placing shallow pans filled with water among the plants or on 
the floors; by placing damp moss or earth on the shelf or table 
where the plants are growing ; or by sprinkling the foliage of 
the plants; either way irill work satisfactorily. Among the 
benefits to be derived by a moist atmosphere are, first— the 
plants will not require more than half the quantity of water 
at the roots, or in other words, the moist atmosphere will not 
consume the moisture that is in the pots i. e., the food of the 
roots. Second, the insect known as the "red spider'' cannot 
live in it. Third, it produces an effect upon the health and 
growth of house plants ; so great that after being grown in 
this way for a few months they are scarcely' recognizable as 
the plants that were grown formerU' in a dry air. The luxuri- 
ance of the foliage is sometimes astonishing. 



18 



CHAPTER IV. 

INSECTS. 

General Jackson Is the author of the phrase that ** Eternal 
vigilance is the price of Liberty," the truth of which is 
doubted by none in the sense in which he meant it. I wish to 
repeat it in relation to the freedom of plants from insects. 

I scarcely know what words to use in order to impress 
upon the mind of the reader in the most forcible manner the 
importance of keeping the plants free from insects. These 
parasites will attack plants that are in perfect health, though 
they are less liable to attack than plants that are diseased, and 
unless they are annihilated right speedily, the plant, being 
robbed of its life-blood, will become diseased, and death will 
inevitably follow. Some of these vampires are so small as to 
be scarcely visible to the naked eye, but under a powerful 
microscope they appear to be monsters. Since microscopes 
can be procured now by a trifling outlay, we Avould advise the 
reader to obtain one; the study of the life and habits of many 
insects will prove Interesting, and by examining your flowers 
when highly magnifled, a world of beauty will be unfolded to 
your gaze of which you never dreamed j^ou were the delighted 
possessor ; but to return to the insects. The ancient adage that 
"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure'' is so very 
appropriate and truthful in this connection that we cannot 
refrain from quoting it; in fact we want to quote it because It 
is the doctrine we desire to teach. Perhaps the best preventa- 
tive that can be used is to keep the plants 'perfectly clean and 
well syringed, and see that all their other needs, such as moist- 
ure, heat, air, soil, etc., are supplied ; in fact keep your plants 
in good health, and you will not be troubled so much with 
insects. The benefits to be derived from having the plants in 
good health is that they will be better prepared to repel the 
enemy or support it until its ravages become visible. I'ou 
may ask, " How can I best keep my plants clean?" All plants 
that have smooth, glossy leaves may be cleansed by the free 
use of warm water and a sponge ; cold water will do equally as 
well if the leaves are not greasy or glutinous, still we belive 
that with water heated to about blood heat the blemish can be 
more speedily removed. The leaves, both the upper and 



19 



under sides, and in at tbeftxtls of the leaves and the stem of 
tlie plants should all be carefully washed; if other than pure 
water is used, the foliage should be well syringed to thorougly 
cleanse the plant. For those plants whose leaves are soft, and 
feel rough and hairy, better use a brush with rather stiff 
bristles ; after the plant has been carefully brushed, syringe it 
with clear water ; this will wash off the eggs of the insects, if 
there are any deposited on the plant. Another general rule is 
to submerge the tops of the plants In clear water heated to not 
more t?i an 120 degrees. If this mode is to be pursued, proceed 
as follows : Pour the water in a vessel of sufficient depth that 
the tops of the plant may not be broken ; test the heat of the 
water with a thermometer; if no more than 120 degrees, turn 
the plant top down and immerse the tops only in the water, 
withdrawing them as rapidly as possible without breaking 
any of the branches ; lay the plants on their sides, so that the 
drippings may not enter the pot. The above treatment is one 
of the best for amateurs who have but few plants to take care 
of. It will not injure the plants if the growth is natural, but if 
the plants have been grown in the shade, and the new growth 
is very weak and tender, it may be damaged; however, this 
will not injure the plant, as it would be decidedly better with- 
out such a sickly growth. We would caution the operator to 
be very careful about the heat of the water, as well as the very 
short space of time the plants are in it, for we don't want 
anybody to cook their plants through carelessness and then 
accuse the author for giving directions that could lead to such 
a result. The above might be called hydropathic treatment. 
We will now describe the little animals that are the source of 
so much annoyance and trouble, and prescribe some allopathic 
medicine to assist them in leaving this mundane sphere ; and 
while we give the remedy to destroy these Insects do not 
forget that it is easier to prevent than to destroy. 

G-roen Fly or Aphis is known to all or nearly all Floricultur- 
ists, nevertheless, for the benefit of the new beginner we will 
briefly describe it as we have seen it, with and without the aid of 
a microscope. In color, as is indicated by its name, it is green* 
its size varies freni ^a scarcely perceptable obiect to one- 
eighth of an inch in length of body, which is egg-shaped ; on either 
side arc three legs which are jointed and have at the end two 
claws which form a hook-shaped foot, the head is small, eyes 
prominent. We think from this short description you will know 



20 



the animal at first sight. The hot water remedy v. ill kill him 
The fumes of tobacco smoke will prevent and kill, but it is obnox- 
ious to most people, especially ladies. The smoke may be produced 
as follows : Procure some tobacco in the shape of stems, smoking 
tobacco or stumps of cigars ; dampen with water to keeiD it from 
blazing and burning too rapidly. Have a few shavings to start 
your fire, put these in a common flower pot or tin can, (with holes 
in the bottom) or anything that will not burn ; better, however 
have something that can bs devoted exclusively to this purpose 
. say an old tin bucket, that in its youthful days would have held 
one or two gallons of water. Around the sides of this, about an 
inch from the bottom, punch a row of holes about % of an inch in 
diameter to -allow a draught, inside the bucket may be placed 
three or four 2 inch pots. On these place a circular piece of seive 
or screen, have a funnel-shaped lid for the bucket, with a hole in 
It two or three inches in diameter through which the smoke may 
escape. A cover should be provided for the hole in the lid so 
that when sufficient smoke is diffusad the supply may be cut off. 
This fumigating bucket may be made at a small cost and withont 
much trouble. Light your shavings, drop them in the bucket, and 
on them put the tobacco, the quantity of which will be regulated 
according to the space to be filled with smoke. The quantity of 
smoke may be determined by noticing that when the smoke leaves 
the bucket it is warm, and rises to the roof or ceiling, then falls. 
When it has fallen sufficiently to encircle the pots nearest the 
floor or table, a sufficient dose shall haye been administered for 
that time. Fumigating should be done not less than once a week, 
and one dose as a 'preventative will be more efficacious than two 
given as a cure. Other modes of fumigating may be adopted, it 
the above is not practicable, such as using a shallow dish for the 
tobacco instead of the bucket we have described, and putting the 
plants under a barrel or tub with the tobacco, or the fumigating 
bucket will prove serviceable if a pipe made of tin is attached to 
the hole in the lid of the bucket and let down to the bottom of the 
barrel or tub. When the barrel is filled the smoke will escape at 
the bottom; as soon as you notice this allow no more smoke to enter. 

Elue Aphis. This is identical with the Grreen Aphis, save in 
color which is dark blue or lead color. This pest is more dangei- 
ous than the G-reen fly, for while the latter is extracting the juices 
from the tender tops where it Is readily discernable, this vampire 
strikers at the roof* o^Zy, and the first intimation we have of its 
presence is when we see our pets, especially Verbenas, Asters and 



21 



other annuals, withering and dying without any cause appearing 
for such ungrateful action. When you notice any p'ant in this 
condition make up your mind thatsomehundreds,atleast, of Blue 
Aphis are at work sapping its life blood. This may not be the 
cause, but ninety-nine times out of one hundred it is the cause. 
The only remedy that has proved beneficial at this stage is tobacco 
water. Steep some tobacco in water, use enough of the " weed ' 
to make the decoction the color of strong tea. Apply this to the 
roots, completely saturating the soil every day for a week or ten 
days. We advise in addition to this that the tops of the plant be 
cut back some, and all superfluous tops be cut off. This will 
relieve the roots considerably and will enhance the chances to suc- 
ceed, which are perhaps very meagre when the injury is discovered, 
as the insects may have been at work for weeks and may have 
destroyed all the tender working roots. If the plants are in pots 
take them out carefully, remove all the soil, wash the roots in 
clear water and re-pot in fresh soil. 

Red Spider is fully as formidable an enemy to plant life as the 
Blue Aphis, whilst the latter is secreted beneath the soil, and 
consequently invisible. The former secrets itself on the under 
side of the leaf, and being exceedingf small, may do a vast amount 
of injury before its presence is noted. Its presence will be indica- 
ted by the leaves of the plants turning brown as though they had 
been scorched ; on many soft wooded plants, the leaves will fall off. 
A hot, fZry atmosphere will produce m'llions of these in a very 
short time, and a moist atmosphere will effectually prevent their 
appearance. Frequent syringing and hot water (110 degrees) 
baths will kill them. The vapor arising from /lea^e^? sulphur will 
operate successfully both as a preventative and cure. Do not 
fturn the sulphur, simply heat it. If the spider attacks such plants 
as Dracenas Palms, Camellias, etc., wash as directed in the begin- 
ning of this chapter. This little pest is very troublesome, and is 
usually found on plants grown in the house. The only remedy 
when it attacks plants in the garden is to syringe frequently, say 
every morning and evening as long as any can be seen. Kemem- 
ber the inseci inhabits the under side of the leaf, and that is the 
place that should receive the largest part of your attentioa whilst 
sprinkling. 

Mealy Bug is a white or downy looking insect, in shape 
oval; in size, when full grown, about of one-fourthan inch 
inlength. From its color and size it can readily be seen if 
present. It seems to enjoy tobacco as well as the most in vet- 

B 



22 



erate smoker, at least the smoke does not seem to be disagree- 
able to it, for it don't even make the creature sick; but just 
take a feather, dip it in kerosene, (refined coal oil) touch the 
little thief with it, and he will loose his beautiful white robe 
and give up the ghost. I have used the above remedy for 
more than eight years with unvarying success. Gently brush 
the feather over all the mealy looking substances that sur- 
rounds the bug and the neighboring axils of the leaves, or else 
you will have a large stock of these insects in a short time. 
Tiiis remedy has operated so successfully for me that I now 
use no other, even on the most delicate plants, which should 
be syringed after the insects are destroyed, to remove them 
from the plants. Alcohol slightly diluted will answer the 
same purpose as the kerosene, but the latter is cheapest, and 
is usually in the house, and can be used immediately. 

Thrtp. I have not seen for several years and had almost 
forgotten there was such an insect. It varies in size from an 
object scarcely visible, to one the size of an aphis; in color 
nearly black, with creamy white rings; it is very active, and 
if disturbed will jump around quite lively. Tobacco smoke 
will kill it, but it requires a strong dose to produce the desired 
-effect. Moisture is an excellent preventative. 

SCALR, OR Shield Louse. A person must look for these in 
order to find them. We frequentlj^ see green flies, mealy bugs, 
-etc., while looking at our flowers, but the brown scale perma- 
nently settles down on the leaves and bark of the plants, and 
some species being about the same color as the stems of many 
plants, the culturist, unless he examines it closely, may sup- 
pose it to be a dormaiit bud or perhaps a " swelling " caused by 
the sting of some insect; hence I say you must look for it. In 
shape it is oval, not quite so large as the mealy bug; it varies 
in color from white to almost black. One remedy is to care- 
fully wash, rub, or scrape them off ; we advise that they be 
washed off, using a sponge or a stiff" tooth brush and strong 
soap suds. You will flnd that they are very tenacious in thei)' 
hold on the plant, and it will take considerable time and 
patience to entirely eradicate them after they are strongly en- 
trenched. If the operator prefers to scrape them off" he must 
be careful not to wound the bark of the plant; the rubbing 
process will not come in general use, especially where ladies 
are the cultivators, as it is not a pleasant performance to mu- 
tilate the scales with the fingers ; nevertheless, if you see one 



23 



or more on your plants destroy them at once, even though it 
be done by crushing it with the finger, for all these insects 
multiply with amazing rapidity. Kerosene may be used in- 
stead of soap-suds; it will kill the insects, but it should not be 
allowed to drain off the plant into the soil, as it might prove 
injurious ; syringe the plant after either operation with clear 
water. 

Vaporizer.— 
This is the best 
article made for 
spr a y i n g cut 
flowers, and ap- 
ply! n g W h ai e 
Oil JSoap and 
other com- 
])Ounds for the 
destruction of 
insects on 
plants. 

Black Rust. We are in doubt v/hether or not we should 
mention this "Rust " in this chapter. The "Greeks", are at 
war; some claim that it is caused by an insect called the Ver- 
bena Mite, whilst others equally eminent are positive that it 
is of fungoid origin. We do not propose to discuss the disease ; 
we only wish to describe the " Rust " and how to avoid it. We 
feel perfectly safe in saying that if the plants are in good 
health, not suffering from any cause whatever, they will not 
be attacked. The presence of this disease will be noticed by 
the young leaves becoming blackened, and in course of time, 
if the disease is not checked, the young growth will be gnarled 
and knotty, and the plant will eventually die. If the plants 
are in a high temperature, by removing them to a cooler place 
the ravages of the disease will be checked, and when first 
noticed the part affected may be pinched or cut off ; this will 
allow the side shoots a chance to push out; they may not be 
affected. See to it that the plants have sufficient pot room, 
moisture, etc. It is said that pulverized charcoal applied to 
the rust spots will prove a successful remedy. This I have 
never tried, for as soon as a plant gets rusty, I throw it away ; 
better lose one plant than run the risk of having all affected. 
We believe this to be the best plan. Keep your plants in 
health and they will not be attacked ; if they are badly 
diseased, throw them away and get healthy ones. 

Mildew attacks principally Verbenas and Roses. It is a 




24 



fungi which is deposited on the foliage, when the plant is 
suffering for want of something essential to its welfare ; this 
may be heat, air in winter— particularly cold draughts of air,, 
moisture, or it may be suffering from an excess of these things, 
or an excess of one and an absense of another of these 
requisites. Mildew has the appearance of a white powder or 
mould deposited in spots or blotches on the leaves ; in severe 
attacks it will entirely cover the leaves, and not unfrequently 
the stems also. Put some flour of sulpher in a dredger and 
dust all the foliage until the whole is pretty well covered ; in 
a short time the mildew will have disappeared, when the 
sulphur may be removed by syringing. 

Worms in Pots may be removed by the use of lime water, 
Dissolve a pound of lime in about four gallons of water. When 
the water has become perfectly clear, saturate the soil in the 
pots with it; usually one application will be sufficient, but it 
may be repeated if necessity requires it without Injury to the 
plants. Another mode is to turn the ball of earth out of the 
pot and remove all the worms that can be seen. 

Rose Slugs. This insect yaries in size according to age' 
from one-sixteenth to one inch in length, in color is a light 
green ; they increase very rapidly and soon destroy all the 
upper surface of the foliage, leaving the veins and skin under 
neath, which looks browned or scorched. The better way to 
deal with this slug is to anticipate his attack and fortify 
against him. In the spring, as soon as the buds begin to swell, 
syringe the plants well with a preparation made by dissolving 
one-half pound of whale oil soap in five gallons of water. A s 
soon as the leaves make their appearance, use this daily for 
two weeks, or longer, if you notice any slugs on your 
bushes. Where this soap is not obtainable, the foliage may be 
dusted pretty thoroughly with road dust, ashes, sulpher, 
plaster of paris or tobacco ashes. This should be done early in 
the morning, while the dew is on the plants. There is another 
species which attacks the young monthly roses ; it consumes 
the whole of the leaf; they do not appear in as large numbers 
as the species which attacks the hardy roses, hence are more 
easily subdued; the most effective remedy is hand picking. 

Rose Bug or Chafee. This bug is exceedingly fond of the 
flowers, and will eat nothing else so long as these can be pro- 
cured; they come without warning, and almost before we are 
cognizant of their presence, our queens of the garden are 



25 



robbed of their crowns. This enemy eats a hole in the blossom 
or lialf open flower bud, and conceals itself therein as long as 
it can find something to eat, hut it is not the least bit bashful, 
for it soon consumes the whole flower, and if there be no more 
Roses near, it flies to pastures new. I have found it very de- 
structive on some of the hardy shrubs; one season especially 
they destroyed nearly all the flowers on Dcutzia Crenato Flora 
Pleno, We know of nothing to prevent the attacks of this 
bug, nor anything to kill them without injuring the flowers, 
except hand p eking, or a speedier mode will be to spread 
sheets under the bushes, shake the bushes and the bugs will 
fall on the sheets; they can then be collected and destroyed. 

Snails. Scatter air slacked lime all over the surface of the 
table, and the snails will not travel over it; if caught or 
seen, sprinkle salt over them ; it is a positive kill every time 
Ants. These are sometimes very annoying. The easiest 
and most effective way to get rid of them is to lay a fresh bone 
near their haunts: in a short time this will be covered with 
the ants, when the bone may be dropped in boiling water. 
The bone may be used a number of times, so long as any ants 
remain. 

All the remedies we recommend, the reader will notice are 
familiar to us all, and are such as may be found at any time in 
almost every home in our land. We might have oflTered more 
remedies, but we consider one good one is suflacient for each 
insect. Another fact please notice; the remedies spoken of 
we have experimented with, and A/toi<rthat they will produce 
the desired eflTect if used as we recommend. 



26 



CHAPTER V. 

WINTER BLOOMING PLANTS. 

In another chapter we have shown that plants breathe; 
this is not the only particular in which they resemble the Im- 
man family. Tliey also need rest, just as we do. It seems to 
be the mission or worli of many plants to produce flowers, 
others to produce tlieir beautiful foliage. We cannot expect 
these plants to produce their flowers or foliage all the year 
without any rest. Those that are grown for their flowers, such 
as Geraniums and Fuchsias, in the autumn cease blooming and 
take unto themselves a season of rest. Those that are grown 
for their elegant and vorigated foliage, while many of them 
retain their leaves they do not grow^if at all, with that vigor 
they do at other seasons. All plant culturists have no doubt 
noticed this. From it we learn that if we would have flowers 
all the year we must select those which naturally, in our cli- 
mate, bloom at different seasons. It is true that we can force 
some varieties into bloom out of their usual season, but this is 
the exception, not the rule, and they must be rested before we 
begin to force them, or our efiTorts will result in failure. We 
w^ill suppose first that we will get those that will naturally 
bloom in our winter, such os Bouvardia Carnations, Stevia 
Eupaloriums, &c. It is best to get young plants in the spring; 
as soon as danger from frost is over these should be taken out 
of the pots and planted in the garden ; during the summer 
these should be kept free from weeds, and if the plants will not 
grow bushy without it, the tops should be pinched out several 
times during the summer; this will keep the plants short and 
stocky and tend to strengthen the branches. As a rule the 
flowers are produced on the points of the branches, so the more 
strong branches there are the more flowers will be produced. 
The plants intended for winter blooming should not beallowed 
to flower during the summer, as some varieties would if per- 
mitted; as soon as the flower buds appear they should be 
pinched off". These plants should be lifted and potted at least 
a month before it is necessarj^ to permanently remove them to 
their winter quarters. 

In our latitude we usually have plentiful rains in Septem- 



27 



ber. After the soil in the garden is pretty well saturated we 
begin to lift these plants; many of them are not potted, but are 
planted out on the benches in the greenhouses. All are lifted 
very carefully, allowing all the soil to remain on the roots that 
will. After the plants are lifted and before they are potted we 
remove all the soil we can without greatly exposing the roots, 
the object in this is to put the plant in as small a pot as the 
roots will admit of. In this operation great care and judgment 
must be used not to seriouslj^ injure the roots by breaking or 
exposure. Remember that the plants will need but little pot 
room for new roots, and that if the pots are too large some of 
the plants will grow too much and bloom but little, and also 
that if there is more soil in the pots the plants will feel just like 
a person who has eaten too much and is suffering from an 
overloaded stomach. Such a person is not in fit condition to 
do much work, and neither are plants in such a condition. 
They w^ill be potted in accordance with directions given in the 
chapter devoted to that subject. Immediately after potting 
they should be thoroughly watered and placed in a shaded 
position in as moist an atmosphere as possible, protected from 
drying winds. In about a week or ten daj'S they will have 
partially recovered and may be given sunlight until nearly 
noon; after another week they may be given full sunlights 
We always prefer to lift the plants in dull, cloudy weather. 
When the season has so far advanced that at night the ther- 
mometer indicates forty degrees or less the plants should be 
protected by removing them to a warmer place for the night. 
During the dav when the thermometer in the shade outside in- 
dicates fifty degrees or more, the plants will be better in the 
open air until evening. The plants should not be allowed tO' 
become chil ed, as at this season it might blast all our hopes for 
future flowers. The plants that require a winter temperature 
of sixty degrees will chill at a higher temperature than those 
that only require fortj^-five degrees of heat, so you must be 
governed according to these requirements. 

If you have no garden in which to grow these plants 
summer thej^ can be grown successfully in pots, (and perhaps^ 
this is the best mode for the amateur to pursue,) in fact such 
plants as Camellias and Azaleas are never planted out, and 
only neel re-potting while young once a year. Large plants are 
only re-potted every alternate j'ear or only once every third 
year, and always after they have done blooming. Roses for- 



28 



winter blooming should be grown in pots all summer. The 
following treatment is suited for all soft wooded plants that 
are grown in pots for winter blooming: The young plants are 
potted in what we call four inch pots. A bed is arranged in 
the j'ard or garden, (where the plants will have morning sun- 
light,) by digging and pulverizing the soil to the depth of six 
inches or more. After the plants are potted the pots are sunk 
in the soil until the top of the pot is level with the surface of 
the soil. These will require more care in watering ; they should 
never be allowed to suffer from want of moisture; if draining 
has been properly attended t6 they cannot suffer from excess 
of It. Probably twice during the season they will require shift- 
ing into larger pots, when, you can readily tell from the ap- 
pearance of the roots. The pots must be moved around occas- 
ionally to prevent the roots from coming through the hole in 
the bottom of the pot. The plants should not be shifted into 
larger pots later than September, as by that time they should 
be in large enough pots to keep them all winter; neither should 
the tops be pinched out later than the first of September; let 
them develop flowers after that time; later in the season pro- 
tect from chilly weather in the same way as before recom- 
mended, and for general and specific treatment see other parts 
of this book. 



29 



CHAPTER YL 

WINTER PROTECTION. 
In other parts of this work we give directions how plants 
and bulbs may be grown during the winter. The object of this 
chapter is to suggest means to save or preserve those plants 
that we have become so attached to that we do not like to see 
them killed by frost ; we cannot hope to do more than keep 
them in a comparatively dormant condition ; they would not 
be ornamental in the parlor or window-garden, so they must 
be consigned to the cold-pit or cellar. If a large number of 
plants are to be cared for, a cold-pit or frame may be prepared 
as follows: Select the drj^est situation in the garden, and ex- 
cavate the soil to the depth of about three feet. If water is 
found at this distance, it must be drained off, as it is of the 
utmost importance that the atmosphere and soil be moderate- 
ly dry, otherwise the plants will mould or rot off, and the de- 
ciduous plants and bulbs will start to grow and will conse- 
quently be damaged if not entirely spoiled. The pit may be 
made any size desired; the inside may be boarded up, or if the 
intention is to make it permanent, it should be built of brick 
or stone. The south walls may be built two feet above the 
level of the soil, and the north wall eight to ten inches higher ; 
the east and west walls gradually raise from the level of the 
south wall to the level of the north wall. This shape gives a 
southern exposure, which is preferable, but not necessary for 
the plants. Shelving should be made for the inside ; this 
should be arranged two feet from the floor or bottom of the 
pit; under this shelving we can "heel in," that is (plant or 
bed out just as we would in the garden,) such deciduous 
plants as Lemon, Verbenas, Hydrangeas, Pomegranates^ 
Pampas Grasses, Crape, Myrtles, etc. On the shelves we can 
grow tender bedding and pot plants, such as Geraniums, 
Heliotrope, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Monthly Roses, Car- 
nations, Abulilons, etc. These plants should be potted at 
least a month before it is necessary to put them in such a pit. 
As we have said, this pit is only intended to keep them in 
hence in order to be successful they must be well established* 
stroDg and healthy. The pots should be sunk in ashes, saw- 



30 



dust, or some other porous substance; this will save them 
from drying out so last, for the less water j'ou give them, with- 
out allowing them to wither for want of it, the better they will 
be. The surface or roof of the pit must be of glass ; In build- 
ing the pit take this into consideration, and make it of a size 
that you can get sash to cover it. When the weather will 
permit, the sash should be raised to give the plants air and 
dry up the damp. For cold weather straw mats or board 
shutters, or both, should be provided to cover the sash, and in 
\evy cold weather it may become necessary to use additional 
covering. The cooler the frame can be kept the better, not 
allowing the temperature to go below thirty-five degrees nor 
above fifty degrees. On the approach of cold weather the wall 
should be banked up to a level with the glass, with soil or 
manure. If but a few plants are to be wintered over, thej' may 
be kept in the cellar. Such as we have said will do under the 
shelving of the cold pit, will do verj' well in a comparatively 
dark, cool, dry cellar. Those that we have allowed to live on 
the shelves mu5t have some light, or thej^ will perish. Erect 
shelves near the cellar windows: on these shelves put the 
plants ; they should be in the same established state as if thej' 
were to be placed in a cold frame. Enough water to keep them 
from withering is all they need. The temperature should be 
from forty to forty-flve degrees, not higher, or they will make 
a weak, blanched growth, wliich may prove fatal. 



31 



CHAPTER TII. 

AQUARIUMS AXD FERNERIES. 
The Aq'^uriuni is one of the most elegant and instructive of par- 
lorornament s. In this we can have specimens of the animal vegeta- 
ble and the mineral kingdoms as interesting as Barnum's Happy 
Family. The form of the tank or vase is immaterial, so no great 
expense need necessarily be incurred in that direction. The 
familiar fish globe Is freuquently used. To the party to whom 
expense is no object, the most attractive and useful vessels are those 
of rectangular form, as a plainer view of the contents can be 
obtained through a plain than through a curved glass. The frame 
work of the tank may be cast iron or wood, well seasoned ; the 
sides and ends filled ^Yith glass. Most of our floral stores keep 
on hand a variety of Aquariums, ranging in price from two dollars 
to fifty dollars. No doubt the florist with whom you deal can sup. 
ply you or refer you to some dealer in Aquaria and Ornaments for 
the same. 

FuRXISHI^'G THE AQUARIUM, Having selected your vessel 
the next thing in order is to prepare it for the reception of its 
intended occupants. In this matter we can only give the reader 
some "hints," in a general way leaving it to the fancy of the 
individual to decide what is the most suitable and ornamental for 
the tank that is to be furnished. It will require considerable 
artistic ability to furnish an Aquarium in such a way as to be 
pleasing and satisfactory. Let us remember that the highest 
degree of art is but an imitation of nature, and the more natural 
an object is, the moi-e pleasing : so with bur artistic skill, let us 
see bow nearly we can imitate natuie in furnishing our Aquarinm* 
Rockwork will be found indispensable in small Aquariums ; a 
few rugged stones of different sizes, shapes, etc., of sufficient va- 
riety to form a contrast, yet all to harmonize, Is perhaps all that 
can be used to advantage. 

In larger tanks a very pretty effect may 1)6 produced by build- 
ing the rockwork above the surface of the vrater leaving plenty 
of cavities in which to grow Aquatic plants. Coarse sand or sifted 
pebbles may be used to cover the bottom of the acquarium, they 
should be thoroughly cleansed in order to free them from any 



33 



minerals or other substances that mla:ht prove injurious. If there 
is no rockwork above the surface, a floating island may be intro" 
duced, a piece of cork may be carved to suit the fancy, after which 
it should be burned all over the surface to give it a unique appear- 
ance. If the size of the "island " will admit of it, holes may be 
made through it, and some of the plants can be trained up through 
these holes: the plants will, to the casual observer, appear to be 
growing on the island ; or the surface of the island may be hoi. 
lowed out in places and filled with soil. Ferns and other small 
plants will grow admirably therein ; the soil'inay be raised to 
represent small hillocks. After what we have said about imitating 
nature we hardly think it necessary to say that coral and Marine 
shells should not be introduced into a fresh water acquarium ; and 
here permit us to say that salt water fish or plants will not flour 
ish in fresh water, nor will the inhabitants of fresh water live in 
salt water. The water for use in an aquarium should be clear as 
crystal, and great care must be exercised that it be free from 
saline matter or the result may be very serious. It should be ob- 
tained from a river or brook ; if, however, there is no such stream 
in the neighborhood, spring or rain water must be used. The latter 
is decidedly preferable, but before it is used it should be filtered 
to render it perfectly clear. If spring water must be used it should 
be allowed to stand in the open air in a tub or some other such vessel 
for a few days in order to be softened by the action of the elements. 

When an aquarium is provided with plants and animals, In 
proper proportion, changing the water will be found quite unneces- 
sary. The plants will consume the carbonic acid gas given oflfby 
the animals, and for this will return to the water in which they 
live, the oxygen necessary for the maintenance of animal life. It 
is frequently necessary to aerate the water ; this should be done 
whenever the fishes come to the surface for the purpose of gulping 
air. It can be done by supplying a portion of fresh water, or by 
introducing oxygen (air) by an artificial process. The simplest 
way to do this is to take out portions of w-ater and then pouring 
them in again from a small height, say from two to three feet. 
When a fountain can be introduced no other mode of aeration 
will be needed. The temperature of the water should not be more 
than seventy nor less than fifty degrees ; the mean temperature^ 
sixty degrees, will prove the most suitable. 

Plants and Pi.akting. By reference to the latter part Of 
this book you will discover those plants which require the 
most water. From these select those which, when grouped in 



83 



the limited spaee of an aquarium will present the most pictur- 
esque appearance, for upon them in a great measure will the 
beauty and attractiveness of the whole depend. The larger 
plants may be grown in pots, the smaller ones will look hand- 
some springing from the crevices of the rockwork. Around 
the large pots may be placed mounds of stones to hide the pots 
from view. A sufficient variety of plants may be obtained to 
to make the aquarium fascinating with the additional charm 
of animal life. 

The AXI3IALS. The great mistake of the amateur, and one 
which is sure to prove fatal to a certain extent, is crou ding. 
Two fish, three snails and two plants are sufficient for each 
g-illon of water, this is the proper proportion as far as we are 
able to determine. And now we must leave the selection to 
you, only saying that you must not overlook the Mollusca or 
snails (Planorbis Corneas is preferred,) for it is they who con- 
sume the refuse matter, hence keep the water pure for the 
balance, gold and silver fish, minnows, newts, tadpoles and 
frogs. The variety and number will depend on the capacity 
of the tank. 

Fernekies. Although Ferns do not pro- 
duce flowers yet it seems that in the hear^ 
of every lover of Nature there Is a spot oc- 
cupied by love of Ferns. We cannot but 
admire them, the delicate maiden hair 
varieties as well as those of more robust 
growth that produce their grand fronds 
from eight to twenty feet in length. Per- 
haps none, or, at most, but very few of our 
readers will have a suitable place in which 
to grow these large-growing species, hence 
we will pass these, simply saying that all 
Ferns require about the same treatment* 
They will vary some in regard to the heat 
required, but they all require moisture 
and shade. The chief trouble in g:rowing them in the house is 
the dry atmosphere. This can be overcome by growing them 
In a glass case. This idea was first advanced by W. B. Ward, 
who invented what is now known as the Wardian Case; it is 
made pretty much in the same manner as an aquarium : in 
fjict, if a glass roof be added to a rectangular aquarium it makes 
a model Fernery, The roof should be made in two pieces so 




34 



that it may be opened ta admit fresh air as well as to allow the 
vitiated air to pass away. Another style is to have the base 
made of terra cotta^ planting the Ferns in this and covering 
with a glass globe. An improvement has been made in this 
style, the globes used are chiefly from Fraiiee, and cost from 
two to five dollars each. They have been liable to break at any 
time from the fact that the heat inside expanded the glass; the 
colder atmosphere outside would not allow this expansion; the 
result was the globe broke. This difficulty has been obviated 
by having a ventilator put in the top of the globe, this pre- 
vents breakage of the glass from atmospheric variations, and 
also allows a current of air to pass through the Fernery at all 
times. 



35 



CHAPTER YIII. 



THE ^v^xDo^y garden. 




Elastic Pla?st 
Sprtxkler is made 
with a flat bottom, 
and perforated, de- 
tachable, brass top. 
Is invaluable for 
Window Gardening, 
Boquet Sprinkling, 
etc. 



Perhaps there will be no chapter in the book that will be 
more thoroughly read than this, and no other will contain 
any information that is needed so much as the information 
that this one should contain. AVe will endeavor to make it as 
concise and complete as our limited space will allow. While 
the financial cundition of the great mnjorit3' of us will not 
admit of our being the happ3' possessorsof conservatories filled 
with rare exotics, we can each have our window garden, from 
which we will derive as much pleasure as those who have been 
more highly favored. It is not necessary that the window 
have a southern or eastern aspect ; certainly this is preferable 
for hJooming plants, yet if our window is toward the north we 
can grow our Palms, Musk, Saxifrage, and many others. In 
this respect then, no person is debarred from cultivating 
window plants; in fact we can grow plants with moderate 
success in every window in the house. Some of our friends 
Lave a bay window in which to grow their plants. They are a 
great improvement on the old style. We have heard some 
complain about the trouble of moving the plants when they 
desired to close the shutters. If the reader is bothered in thi« 
way, let him have a stand ma2.e, the top of which will just fit 
in the space in the window ; this stand should be on castors • 
it can be pulled back into the room until the shutters are 



36 



closed, when it may or may not be pushed back into the 
window. If the window is wholly devoted to floriculture, it 
can be more easily and saccessfull)^ managed if the window is 
divided off from the room by glass doors hung on hinges, that 
may be opened or closed at will; this will keep dust and 
noxious gases from the plants. And just here we wish to say 
it is almost impossible to grow plants in a room where coal 
gas is burnt, unless precautions are taken to protect the plants 
from the atmosphere while the gas is burning. This is per- 
haps the cause of most failures in the attempt to grow plants 
in the house. If the glass doors we have 
already spoken of cannot be used as we 
have recommended, then before the gas 
is lighted lower the curtains or window 
shades; this will usually prove sufficient. 
We have already given all necessary di- 
rections for the treatment of the plants; 
they will be found in the preceding chap- 
ters under their respective headings. The 
extent of the cultivation of plants for win- 
dow gardening must be governed by the 
resources of the culturist. If space inside 
and out is limited, and he cannot remove 
his plants when out of bloom, he must be 
contented with such plants as will be or- 
namental for the longest time. Usually, 
however, there are windows enough to ac- 
commodate a large number of plants. One 
or more of these windows occupy the most 
conspicuous place or places; in these we 
certainly want to have our prettiest plants. 
By exercising our judgment we can have 
these windows looking admirably all the time: true, 
it will be at the expense of the windows less favored 
by position. Yet the effect will be more pleasing, 
and no doubt more satisfactory, to see one or two 
windows looking grand than to see five or six looking only 
moderately fair. When flowering plants are out of bloom 
transfer them to another place to recuperate, and supply their 
places with others just coming into bloom. This will require 
some forethought to have a continued succession of flowers all 
through the seasons. Gain a knowledge of the time the plants 




REVOLVING PLANT 
STAND FOR BAY 
^VINDOW. 



37 



should bloom and then make your selections accordingly. In 
making these selections bear in mind that a variety, especially 
in colors, is essential to make the effect pleasing to the eye. 

A Model Window. Many persons who will read this 
may not have tke luxury of a bay window, and may know by 
a sad experience how unsuitable are most windows for plant 
growing; the sills are narrow, and a plant of spreading habits 
has one side crushed by being pushed against the glass, ajid 
if the weather is cold the plant is chilled, if not frozen, by 

contact with the glass. We be- 
lieve that many would have a 
suitable window made if it could 
be done at a slight expense. The 
one we are about to suggest is 
within the reach of all, and we 
feel satislled that a true lover of 
flowers will never regret having 
adopted the plan. We cannot 
think how it could be Impov^ed 
upon for the purpose it is intend- 
ed. It will be seen by the eijgrav. 
ingthat the sill of the window is. 
extended in breadth beyond the- 
face of the wall of the house by 
brackets. It can be made movab^ e. 
or stationery. We prefer one that is so arranged that it can be 
drawn into the house in the evening or in cold weather, Wheu. 
drawn in, the sash that covers the garden will serve as a com- 
mon window sash. In addition to what is shown in the en- 
graving we recommend a glass door after the same style anci 
to answer the same purpose as that recommended for the bay- 
window. One of the great beauties of this window is that itsr 
construction is simple and the cost is trifling. Any carpenter 
of ordinary ability, by looking at the cut, can see just \That i-s 
wanted, and can make it without any directions from the 
author, who does not pretend to understand the art of window 
building. For the inside a shallow pan made of zinc, large 
enough to cover the bottom of the window, should be used to 
keep the water ofl' the frame work; if this is not done the 
moisture will cause the wood to expand, when it will be difli- 
cult to move the window eitiier way. This pan need not be 
more than two or three inches deep ; it can be partially filled 




38 



with sifted ashes, fine gravel or any other material that water 
will readily pass through ; clean brick will do admirably, and 
on these the plants can be placed. This water will remain in 
the pan, causing a moist vapor to arise which will greatly ben- 
efit the plants. The water in the pan should be taken out and 
the pan rinsed at least once a week in summer, and once in two 
weeks in winter, or oftener if the pan becomes filled with water. 
The plants are arranged and watered from the room within. 
On the whole, we can't help but say we like this window in 
every respect. By having such an one you will be enabled to 
give your plants more ^sunlight ; by closing the inner doors 
you can keep dust and gases from them, you can fumigate 
without difficulty; in fact it is one of the greatest helps to as- 
sist you to victory. 

The question may be asked. What plants are best suited for 
window culture? It is rather diflacult to answer. There are so 
man5' " ifs " aboutit ; the best answer we can give is to refer the 
reader to the list of plants and their requirements. You can 
readily discover those whose wants you can supply. They are 
those for you to procure. 



89 



CHAPTER IX. 

HANGING BASKETS, 

Growing plants in suspended baskets is one of the 
most popular modes. We are pleased to note the 
rapidly growing sentiment in favor of this; although all plants 
are not suitable for this, yet it requires something of this kind 
to fully present the beautiful habits of quite a large num- 
ber of our familiar friends. The style or shape of a basket 
will be to a great extent in unison with the ideas of the owner ; 
so also will be the material of which it is made, provided the 
person makes or has them made ; however at most of the floral 
stores can he bought baskets made of wood, wire or earthen- 
ware. The Wood or Rustic Basket is made of an oval bowl cov- 
ered with knotted laurel roots, etc., and suspended usually 
with grape vine or cane handles ; they will last for three or 
perhaps four years. The wire basket is preferable to the 
rustic, because it is cheaper, and, as when the plants are grow- 
ing luxuriantly they almost completely hide the basket, it 
will look fully as well; and again, it is almost impossible to 
give too much water, as the drainage is so complete. The 
earthenw^are baskets have at least one advantage; they will 
not wear out ; consequently, if not broken by accident or care- 
lessness, they will last for ages. There is such a great demand 
for this kind of baskets, that the manufacturers rival each 
other in the production of new designs^ and in the decoration 
of them. One of the favorite designs is a simile of a log, 
painted to imitate nature ; it is beautiful and attractive, yet 
for rare and valuable plants we do not recommend it, as the 
paint fills up the pores, thereby depriving the plants of the 
air necessary to their health ; however, it is better that the 
paint is on the outside only, and the plants will do compara- 
tively well for a season. And as the baskets should be over, 
hauled and remodeled twice a year, viz : spring and fall, they 
can be used, new plants being used for filling; the old plants 
being re-potted and allowed to recuperate. As we have said^ 
the above styles can be bought. Many of our culturist^ reside 



40 



in rural districts ; they have ample opportunities for display- 
ing taste and ingenuity in arranging other styles; forinstance' 
one like a log cabin without the second story, an octagonal 
one ; in fact, a great many beautiful designs will be presented 
to the mind, all of which can be readily made; one of our lady 
friends made a neat one of corn-cobs, though it was nofe very 
durable. If the wire or log cabin style is used, the interstices 
must be filled to prevent the soil from falling out. For this 
purpose use sheet moss; it will be found in the woods on trees 
that have fallen and are decaying. These styles will drain 
very rapidlj^, and the culturist must take care that the plants 
in them do not suffer from lack of moisture. If, on the other 
hand, the bowl of the basket is not porous, a liberal supply of 
drainage must be used. It is not an uncommon thing to see 
some plants in a basket growing luxuriantly and others in the 
same basket in a dying condition, and the appearance of the 
whole not very creditable to the owner. We are not surprised 
at this. We have always contended that it requires knowl- 
edge, taste and judgment to fill a basket so that it will look 
well and do well, but very frequently none of these are used. 
We see all in one basket ; plants that require a great amount 
of moisture and those that want very little ; plants that re- 
quire a hot house temperature with those that frost will hard- 
ly kill ; some that require sun with those that need shade ; 
those whose season of growth is nearly passed, with those that 
are just springing into a sturdy growth, etc. We enumerate 
these differences so that you may be on your guard when 
about to fill your basket. You want the basket to look well' 
that you may enjoy it, and with j^our friends admire it. If it 
must be so, it devolves upon you to start right; study well the 
nature of the plants ; associate together those whose require- 
ments are similar ; use taste in their arrangement and judg- 
ment in their location and in their attention. A knowledge 
of these things may be gained by examining closely our alpha- 
betical list of plants and their culture, etc. None of the strong 
and rapidly growing plants are suitable for a basket; as the 
quantity of soil is limited, their roots would soon " crowd out 
the roots of the weaker plants; hence we use the more delicate 
and comparatively slow growing plants for this purpose. We 
have usually found it necessary to use one plant of upright 
habit for the center of the basket; this is surrounded with 
plants of a drooping and half drooping habit; they can be ar- 
ranged to suit the taste of the owner. A number of baskets 



41 



may be filled with different plants, all the plants in each 
basket to require the same treatment, and placed in appro- 
priate situations, so that all the available places may be made 
attractive by their presence. Do not overlook the fact that 
some of our most beautiful and best adapted plants for this 
purpose are those with ornamental foliage, the flowers of 
which are in many instances small, or perhaps we might say, 
they are not attractive. Nothing is more graceful or more at- 
tractive for the centre of a basket than a seedling plant of 
Centaurea Gymnocarpa, yet the flowers greatly resemble those 
of the Scotch thistle. 



42 



CHAPTER X. 

BULBS. 

We do not know hew we would get along: without our flower- 
ing bulbs. Some of the most beautiful productions of nature are 
borne by our bulbs and bulbous plants. We can scarcely conceive 
of anything more magnificent than the golden-rayed Japanese 
Lily, (Auratum) yet we should not mention this one alone, for 
perhaps ere this pamphlet is distributed, another far more beauti" 
ful may be introduced: such has been the history of the past; 
from one variety hundreds, yes thousands of varieties have been 
produced, until the latest productions would hardlj' be recognized 
as belonging to the same family. The culture of bulbs is still in 
its infancy; we believe the time will soon come when in this 
country thousands of acres will be devoted to the culture of bulbs > 
and that mammoth establishments will devote their attention 
wholly to this branch of business. Why should It not be so ? 
While yet the earth is cla 1 in her snowy robes the little snow- 
drop awakens from its sleep, pushes through the frozen soil, and 
greets us with its welcome announcement that spring is coming ; 
from this time all through the spring, summer, and until " chil^ 
November's surly blast makes fields and forests bare," when the 
autumn Crocus, unmindful of the storm, produces its white or 
purple flowers, the last tribute of the season, there is no time that 
our eyes may not be gladdened by these brilliant flowers, and our 
senses regaled by their delightful perfume. They come to us 
first and remain with us until the end — all this in the garden, year 
after year with very little trouble. Dear reader this is a pleasant' 
beautiful world ; you may enjoy it if you will. 

Bulbs play an important part In window gardening ; their 
simple culture commends them to all. They bear the dry atmos- 
I)here with impunity, and the gases that would kill many plants 
falls harmlessly up:)n them. They suffer but little from the 
attacks of insects, which is a great consideration. We can have 
flowers from these in the house all the year around. We begin 
with Hyacinths, in January, which are followed in quick succes- 
sion by Snowdrops, Crocus. Iris, Anemones, Tulips, Narcissus, 
Lily of the Valley, the grand Lilies, Gladiolus, Tigridias, Tuberoses 
Colchicum, until the Roman Hyacinths and Narcissus say Merry 



43 



Christmas and a Happy New Year. We propose, for our own 
benefit, to divide the principal bulbs In four classes, viz : 

1st. Tender AsmvAL Bulbs. Those that from a dormant 
state grow, bloom, and mature their bulbs in one season, such as 
G-ladiolus and Tigridias. They will not bear much frost, some of 
them none at all. Some that we designate as tender will, no 
doubt, prove entirely hardy in the Southern states; most of 
them are best suited for bedding purposes, a few, however, such 
as G-loxinla and Cj'clamen are only suited for pot culture. 

2d. Hardy Annual Bulbs are those that from a dormant con- 
dition, grow, bloom, and mature their bulbs, and are liot irijui ed 
by our cold winters, such as Hyacinths, Crocus, Tulips, etc. 

3d. Tender Perennial Bulbs are those that do not need a 
season of rest, hence are grown all the time. 

4th. G-REENKOUSE BuLBs. For description see culture of 
greenhouse bulbs. 

CuLTUKEOF Tender Anntal Bulbs. All of the.>e are natives 
of countries where there is little, if any frost. They saiul .l n^ver 
be planted in the garden uatil'the earth has been war;n :-d l-y the 
increasing rays of the sun : we cannot give any sp3:-ifi5 l time That 
would be advantageous. AYe, in this latitude, p'ant them 
about June Ist: no doubt our Southern friends have them 
in bloom by that time if not earlier ; however, do no: i>lant r.ntil 
danger from frost is past. They are all easily gi'owa, iuxuriatinz 
in a sandy soil, well enriched with good stable mmiir?. A liich 
should bedus: in the soil the previous autumn. Plant the bu .bs about 
four inches deep, and from nine to twelve inches a;nirt in tlie 
rows; all the care they will require during the sumrn?r will Ve to 
keep them clear of weeds, and if the ground shou'ci h?j.ze o: be- 
come hard, loosen it with the hoe or fork. Sai-h a i th3 G-'a lio'us 
should be tied to ne it sta'ces to keep th?m frDui bi-eiiking. as 
well as to show the flowers to hotter ad vanta-jfe. In th? aiituinti/ 
after the first frost has killed the fo!iag3. the bulbs -hould be dug 
up, dried in the sanand put in a dry, warm p',ac3, there to remain 
until time for planting in the sprip.g. The dezree of dryne-^s ran 
only be learned by experience, all we can say is if the bulbs 
become soft they are too dry, if they b?2:in to grow they aie to:> 
warm and perhaps too moist ; in either case remove to a e )oler 
place -and put them in dry sand or charcoal. Eemsraber that 
Tuberoses that have bloomed once will not bloom again. 

Hardy Axnual Bulbs. Many of the varieties of thi.^ 
class are now popularly called Holland Bulbs because they are 



44 



grown more largely tliera than in any other country, hund- 
reds of acres beinT devorei to their culture. They usually 
arrive ia this country about the first of September. They 
should be planted as soon thereafter as possible, as the exposure 
to drying winds tends to weaken them; and they should be 
-planted early enough in the season so that they will begin to 
grow and make a strong start a' th? roots before cold weather 
sefcs in. If this advantage is given them the flowers will be 
much iiandsonier. If the soil is not sandy we generally put in 
a liandfLil of soil in the hole and imbed the bulb in the sand ; 
this will act in the capacity of drainage and save the bulb from 
rot. Manures for hardy bulbs must be well rotted ; coav dung 
is preferred ; it should be well mixed with the soil. Plant Hy- 
acinth and Lily bulbs four inches deep, Tulips and Crocus 
three inches. After we are satisfied that cold weather has set 
in for the season, the bulb bed should be covered with three 
inches of leaves, straw, or litter, which must be removed in 
early Spring, 

: or CuLTUKE OF TENDER BuLBS. Becausc we have no 
room in the garden, or perhaps no garden in which to grow 
these bulbs, still we need not be deprived of them. They are 
admirable pot plants. Three or four G-ladiolus, Tigridias, or 
^ephranthes may be planted in an eight inch pot, and if carefully 
attended to will bloom beautifully and bountifully. Tiie Tube- 
rose, Caladiums, and larger growing Amar\dlis should be potted 
single, that is, one bulb in the pot. They may be put in four 
Inch pols at first, and afterward shifted into larger pots. The 
treatment is simple: rich, sandy soil, good drainage, plenty of 
moisture, syringe frequently. This treatment can be pursued 
when desired to start or force the bulbs early in the season, be- 
fore it would be safe to plant in the garden. By this mode they 
will bloom much earlier in the season. Tliis is desirable, espe- 
cially^ with the Tuberose, as it sometimes is killed by frost before 
the flowers are developed. We should say if you wish to /ores 
these bulbs, plenty of heat is necessary^. 

Pot Cclture of Hardy Annuai. Bulbs. This class re- 
quire a widely difierent treatment. If we would be successful 
with them we must encourage a strong growth at the roots 
bj/ore the tops push forth. We will give the culture of the Hy- 
acinth, as it is so well known, and the same treatment is 
equally applicable for Tulips, Crocus, Narcissus, and all other 
such bulbs. Prepare a soil composed of about one-fourth well 



45 



rotted manure, three-fourths of rotted sandy sod or turf; for a 
medium sized Hyacinth bulb use a pot five inches in heighth 
and the same in diameter. Fill this loosely with the prepared 
soil, press the bulb down in the soil until the top of the bulb is 
aboat a half inch below the level of the top of the pot, press 
down the soil and fill in with more, leaving space at the surface 
for watering. A larger pot may be used, say an eight inch not, 
in this three bulbs can be put. and will produce a pretty effect 
when in bloom'. This pot would be large enough in which to 
grow seven Tulips or ten Crocus. These bulbs may be grown 
in glasses or in boxes on tables in damp moss. A great many 
pretty designs will suggest themselves to the enthusiast, no 
matter in what they are to be grown. We give the following • 
After the bulbs have been potted give them one good watering 
and put them in some cool, dark place, this to encourage growth 
at the roots. " In from three to four weeks the pots will be pretty 
well filled with roots, then they are in condition to make and 
support a strong, healthy growth at the tops, and should be 
placed where they will have plenty of light and moderately 
warm. In a few more weeks we will see them in all theirglory. 
These bulbs will rarely bloom well the second year, but if they 
are planted out in spring they may produce very fine flowers the 
second season after. The cheapest way is to get newly imported 
bulbs every year. If they are grown in water, a few drops of 
ammonia added to the water every time it is changed, will be 
beneficial to them. 

Culture of Texder Perennial Bulbs. These are usu- 
allj^ grown in pots. They luxuriate in a rich, sandy soil, like 
plenty of moisture during the growing season, a part of which 
should be withheld after their season of flowering, when they 
become semi-dormant, though retaining their foliage. 

Greenhouse Bulbs. This is a class that are very hand- 
some; in it we include the Gloxinia and Cyclamen. We give 
them this name because they are not suitable for bedding pur- 
poses. They are all admiraole and highly esteemed for pot 
culture in the house, window garden or conservatory. They 
require, while growing, the general treatment given for tender 
annual bulbs in pots. 



46 



CHAPTER XI. 

VEXTILATION AND LIGHT. 

Plants breathe. This fact has been ascertained by the 
carefally conducted experiments of very eminent scientific 
botanists. I do not consider it necessary to adduce arguments 
to prove tliat which is Acknowledged by all who have studied 
the subject, to be a fact. Plants, like human beings, receive 
considerable nourishment from the contents of the atmos- 
phere, for it, like water, contains life in many forms, and is 
composed mainly of oxygen, nitrogen and carbonic acid gases. 
We, by the process of respiration, consume oxygen, and from 
the lungs and through seven millions of pores diffused over 
the skin, are incessantly' pouring out a deadly poison, carbonic 
acid gas. Vegetation consumes this gas as well as nitrogen, 
and through the pores of the leaves and stems of vegetable life 
is emitted oxygen. Hence we see how necessary to the health 
of each other are the components of the' two kingdoms, viz : 
the animal anti vegetable. To use an old expression, " We can 
kill two birds with one stone " by giving the plants v* e grow in 
our homes pure air. While benefitting our plants we benefit 
ourselves. If the air we breathe is impure, its inhalation will 
certainly- be followed by a feeling of lassitude, languor and ir- 
ritability ; the nervous system becomes affected, the intellect- 
ual faculties weakened, and if the cause is not removed, disease 
will sooner or later follow. Since plants breathe much after 
the same manner as we do, (though consuming a different 
component of the atmosphere) it certainly follows that we 
both require in this respect the same stimulant, pure air. As 
we have arrived at this conclusion, we now come to the subject 
of Ventilation ; and while we endeavor to get pure air for the 
plants, we also want the pure air for the fair owner of these 
plants, that he or she may live long to enjoy their rich beauty 
and delightful fragrance. When Uie breath of the body issues 
from the chest, it being heated, is rarified, and consequently is 
specifically lighter than the surrounding atmosphere, hence it 
immediately ascends, and before the next respiration it has 
given place to a purer air. This vitiated air that has risen can 



47 



only ascend to the celling; and there remains only so long as 
it is of a higher temperature than the air nearer the floor. 
When it lias gradually given out its excess of heat, it becomes 
of the same density as the rest of the atmosphere, mingles 
with it, and as it falls to our level we are in danger of inhaling 
it a second time, or perhaps oftener. From this it is evident 
that the aperature tlirough which tliis Impure or vitiated air 
escapes should be near the ceiling of the room, or if for plants 
in a window, it should be near the top, but it must be remem- 
bered that no air can escape from any room unless an equal 
quantity enters to supply its place; hence it is necessary to 
make provision for the admiesion of pure air. A very good 
mode for the emission of foul air is to make a funnel shaped 
hole in the chimney, and liave a zinc funnel made to fit it 5 
securely fasten the funnel in the hole; through this funnei 
most, if not all, the impure air will pass, and will be carried 
off by the upward current in the chimney; to supply the place 
made vacant by the egress of this air, a door may be opened, 
or if this is not practicable, some other mode will suggest it" 
self, but recollect ilmt cold draughts are injurious to yourself 
as well as to the more tender plants ; the upper sash of the 
window ma3' be lowered, or if the weather is mild, the upper 
maj' be lowered and the lower one raised, or one or both may 
be taken out. You canimt give plants too much fresh air, pro- 
vided the air is not chilling to their nature. 

Light is as needful to the health of plants as air, and its 
absence in sufficient quantity is the cause of a great disap. 
pointment to many amateurs. All i3lants need light; some, 
we know, cannot endure the direct rays of our summer sun- 
light; they are the inhabitants of our woody vales and hill- 
sides, where they are protected by the foliage of the lords o^ 
the forest; there they grow to perfection ; among these may 
be noted the ferns and mosses, some of which, if exposed to 
the fierce rays of old Sol for one half hour, would not recover 
from the effects of the injury for months. There are other 
plants that will delight in the sunshine in the morning, but 
prefer to have some shade in the afternoon. Among these 
may be noted the Golden Tricolor Geraniums ; they need some 
sunlight to bring forth their bright colors, yet if exposed too 
much, the delicate tints which make them so lovely, will fade 
away lilvC the mists in the morning. There is still another 
class that want all the light they can get, and if thej^ don't get 



48 



it, they will soon Bhow their displeasure by refusing to pro- 
duce their beautiful flowers, and by doing otlier naughtj 
things. Among these may be mentioned Roses, Zonale Ger- 
aniums, and nearly all other bedding plants. Wiiere plants 
are grown so that only one side is exposed to tlie light, they 
should be turned around every few days, else they will ail 
grow toward the light and) become as gardeners say one 
sided." Wardian Cases, Ferneries, Hanging ^Baskets, etc., 
should also be turned frequently, or all] the beautj^^gwill be 
lacing the light, and the occupaut^5 of the ^room will| receive 
but a little share of it. 



49 



CHAPTER XIL 

PL.^ NTS BY MAIL AND EXPRESS. 

Sending plants by express was, in days gone by, considered 
a great advance, and it certainly was as it opened an avenue 
to those who, by reason of their location, could not obtain 
plants in the neighborhood of their residences. The mode of 
packing plants was soon mastered by the florists, and annual- 
ly tons of plants were safely delivered b^' the various express 
companies. The greatest difficulty in the past has been the 
"charges." Verj^ often on long distances they have amounted 
to more than the first cost of the plants. We are pl(^ased to 
say, he w^ever, that now (Dec, 1879,) the charges are very ma- 
terially reduced, and that a great deal of the red tape which 
hitherto has been in vogue is entirely abolished, and instead 
of each company making its charge, that all goods passing over 
the routes of the principal express companies are now carried 
to their destination under one charge. This is so advantageous 
that now if the distance be not more than GOO to 800 miles, and 
the package weighs more than five pounds, it is fully as cheap to 
have them sent by express. All this was well enough for 
those who lived near where the express companies have their 
offices, but there are a great many people who do not live with- 
in a day's journey of such an office ; they love flowers just as 
dearly as those Avho have a florist's establishment in their im- 
mediate vicinity. Happy for them, Uncle Sam said he would 
carry their plants in the mail bags. We do not know who was 
the first to send plants by mail ; if we knew, we would advo- 
cate the erection of a monument to his memory, for by this 
mode of transportation every one can have tlieir flowers de- 
livered in their village or hamlet at the rate of one cent per 
ounce. This mode of mailing plants is very popular, and if 
only a few plants are w^anted, and the distance is long, it is de - 
cidedly preferable to expressing them. During the last six 
years all over our country business has been, to say the least, 
dull, and in many of the homes in our land luxuries have been 
below par. No one doubts but that flowers are to a certain ex- 
tent luxuries, and as they could neither be eaten or worn, they, 



50 



among the first, were discarded; hence the flower trade was 
dull. P'lorists who had all their capital invested could not af- 
ford to sit down and wait for good time;s they must eflect sales 
in some way, and the only way to do this was to lower their 
prices, and the lowest priced man got the order. The result has 
been that plants are now delivered at your door at less than 
one-third the price they were in the spring of 1873. Even now 
at these prices some florists are making money. But while we 
remember that the prices are so low, we must also remember 
that in the mailing trade the plants are smaller. It is unrea- 
sonable to expect a large plant for a small price, or in other 
words, you need not expect to receive a plant weighing a half 
pound by mail for ten cents ; the cost of packing and postage 
would cost all you gave for it. Florists who make a business of 
sending plants by mail prepare their stock for this purpose. If 
the florist understands his business he will have small, stocky, 
well-rooted, healthy plants, grown in as cool a temperature as 
the nature of the plants will admit of. At the prices quoted in 
their respective catalogues, they can only afford to send small 
plants, hence when a plant becomes too large to send by mail, 
that is, when it weighs too much for the price, it is grown on 
either for stock or for retailing at home. The florist with 
whom you deal doubtless has some Of these plants. If you 
want larger plants than are usually sent by mail you can get 
them by adding one-half or doubling the catalogue price, which 
has been placed low in order to secure your patronage. We 
don't want a false impression to go forth from these remarks , 
that the higher the price the larger the plant. We know that 
some florists charge two or three times as much for the same 
sized plants as others do, the plants being very similar. 

Sending plants by mail is always attended with some risk. 
No matter how well they may be packed, the box may be acci- 
dentally broken or the package bursted, and the plants will be 
damaged if not wholly destroyed. Sometimes the packages 
are allowed to remain in the Post-offlce for several days ^and 
nights before they are called for by the party to whom they are 
addressed ; If the weather is very cold the plants may get 
frozen while awaiting delivery at the PostoflSce, hence you see 
the necessity of getting the plants as soon as they are delivered 
at your Post-oflice. The loss occurring in these ways is com- 
paratively small, and most florists bear this loss by guarantee- 
ing the safe arrival of plants in good condition ; however, this 



51 



guarantee does not prohibit these losses from occurring, so 
you are liable to receive plants in a damaged condition at any 
time, though they be fine plants, well packed. If you should 
get plants in a damaged state, don't get angry and call the un- 
suspecting florist a swindler, and other pet names, but consider 
the matter calmly; tell him of your misfortune. Give him 
the names of the plants that are injured beyond recovery and 
ask him to replace them; if he don't answer your letter, 
write again, and if he does not replace the plants, don't deal 
with him any more. 



52 



CHAPTER XIII. 

IX THE GARDEN. 

If we were looking for a site on which to locate an extensive 
Flower Garden, we would be very particular about the aspect 
and soil ; but as this work is intended only for the amateur 
who loves Flora's Children and is anxious to raise only a few, 
we do not think it necessary to dilate on that part of the 
subject, because if the fioil is not just suitable, we can make it 
so, and if the aspect is not the most desirable for some kinds of 
plants, it will do first rate for others ; in fact there is no part 
of the globe that is inhabited by man or beast, in which the 
vegetable kingdom is not fully represented. In the matter of 
soils, ap'proximate the following : A subsoil of gravel or sand 
is the most desirable, as this will allow all surplus water to 
pass away rapidly. If the subsoil is of a clayey nature, it 
should be drained : however, for a few plants, not many per- 
sons v>-ould be willing to go to the trouble and expense of 
thoroughly draining a small patch of ground according to the 
established laws on the subject. Sometimes when we have 
been making flower beds, where there was a cla}' subsoil, we 
have excavated it t-o a depth of three feet from the surface, and 
filled the hole two-thirds full with gravel, then completed the 
filling with a soil which contained sulficient sand and fibrous 
matter to allow the surplus water to pass through to the 
gravel underneath. This soil had been enriched with half 
rotted stable manure, and should be so enriched each succeed- 
ing fall or spring. Draining on a more extensive scale has 
been and is still occasionally discussed in all the leading agri- 
cultural papers; we do not think a repetition is necessary, 
hence we omit it. 

The soil we have described as being used for the surface of 
the flower beds is suitable for growing nearly all kinds of 
plants, and is what we would prefer as a basis to begin with. 
If, lor some particular variety, we needed a litle more sand, 
clay or manure, this soil could be prepared to suit them by 
giving the soil a top dressing of clay or manure, as necessity 
demanded, and thoroughly incorporating it into the soil by 
spading or plowing; or if there should be only a few plants. 



53 



this ingredient n:ay be mixed in the soil in the immediate 
vicinity of ttie plants, Tvben they are being planted out. ex- 
cept when manure is wanted. If it is to be used in This waj' it 
must be thoroughly rotted, or it may prove more injurious 
than beneficial. In regard to the aspect, this, of course, we 
cannot change; but we can select plan ts to suit It, no matter 
whether it be Xorthern or Southern, Eastern or V\^estern. For 
a Xorthern or Eastern aspect, select plants that can not bear 
thefierce afternoon ra^'s of our midsummer sun. For instance, 
our Fuchsias and Begonias are admirable bedding plants, if 
they are planted in such a position that the sun does no shine 
on them later than from ten to eleven o'clock in the morning. 
In our latitude, in such a position the Golden Tricolor Gera- 
niums would have sufficient sunlight to bring out their deli- 
cate tints and not sufRcient to cause the tints to become dull 
looking and faded. Many other plants, in fact all that require 
partial shade, should be kept in summer in such a position. 
Many of these would flourish under the shade of our forest and 
fruit trees, if not too densely shaded. For a southern or west- 
ern exposure, we can use our Roses, Geraniums, Coleus and 
all other plants upon which the sun's most intense rays fait 
with impunit3-; indeed these plants seem to require all the- 
sun-light and sun heat they can get tofulU* develop the beauty" 
of their flowers or foliage. 

Designs. Since we believe that all parts of the garden 
can be utilized, it becomes necessary to adopt a plan or de- 
sign by which we can divide it into flower beds and grassy 
plots in such a manner that when done the whole will har- 
monize and look pretty before the flovrer beds are planted, be- 
cause if they don't harmonize before the beds are planted, 
they rarely will after. Xow we might give a dozen or more 
full page engravings to give you an idea of what we think 
pretty, but there are such a variety of shapes and sizes of 
gardens, and such a great difference in our ideas of taste, that 
we think as perhaps these engravings would only be pretty to 
look at. and would not suit more than one in a thousand, they 
had better be omitted, more so because we have another idea 
that is suited to the wants of all. Take a piece of paper and 
sketch the otitlines of the plot you propose to use for a flower 
garden. It is not absolutely necessary that this be accurate 
certainly it would be better, we suggest, that this be sketched' 
correctly and proportionately. Xext 2iiark off the walks in 



D 



54 



use and new ones you propose to make. The remainder will 
be what you will have for grass and flowers. The next opera- 
tion will be to lay out the flower beds. The prevailing shapes 
for these are the Circle, Oval, Star, Heart, Crescent, Triangle, 
Shield, etc., while on either side of the walks the whole dis- 
tance may be a long bed from three to four feet wide. From 
these or other shapes select such as your taste may prefer, and 
mark or sketch them on the paper, being careful that the 
sizes of the be is are proportionate, and that tlie designs har- 
monize. If when one design for the whole plot is completed, 
examine it carefully and critically, to see that you are pleased 
and perfectly satisfied with it; if not, then try again ; and just 
at this time we recommend a great deal of patience, because 
this will be more easily remedied while it is on paper than it 
would be after the design is executed in the garden. After 
tryiiDg until you have succeeded in producing a design that 
you fully approve of, the next move will be to lay out the 
garden in reality. This can now be more readily and more 
easily done, as we now have to guide us, a design that just 
suits your taste and your garden to a T. 

Layixg out the Gakden. With the design, spade and 
shovel, rake, stakes, tape line, and a rope or clothes line, we 
enter the garden. If it has not been graded or leveled to suit 
the taste of the owner, this will be the first operation ; we all 
know how to do this, so we only desire to whisper in your ear 
that the surface should be a gentle slope from the house; this 
will carry away the water, and the scene will look prettier 
buth from the house and from the avenue. The supposition 
i\o^ is that it is graded and that there is about twelve inches 
of what we might call a fair garden soil covering the whole. 
We now, according to the designs we have adopted, proceed to 
lay out the walks or roads. If these are to be straight, all that 
will be necessary will be to get our distances from the designs 
and put in stakes at either end ; we can now stretch our line 
from these stakes and drive in a stake at every eight or ten 
feet during the whole length of the walk; but if these walks 
are to be bending or serpentine in shape, it will be more diffi- 
cult to lay them out correctly. It requires considerable skill 
and some practice to mark out irregularly shaped walks or 
flower beds without the aid of something to clearly show just 
where the outline should be. We have found nothing more 
advisable to recommend to our friends than a heavy rope or 
ciothes-line ; this is always on hand, and answers the purpose ; 



55 



lay this on the ground and bend or coil in any direction until 
the desired shape is obtained. By this rope the e^'e is enabled 
to perceive the whole form of the walk or flower bed at once, 
and readily detect any fault and rectify it at once. When other 
than straight lines are desired, \vq consider the use of the rope 
superior to the old mode of using nothing but stal^es ; its use 
is also advantageous in connection with stakes in laying our 
beds in the shape of stars, and all others that are more or less 
pointed, a stake being used at each point to keep the rope in 
position. When the rope shows the walk to be the right 
shape, it should be marked off by making with the spade a 
row or gutter two inches deep close beside the rope. All the 
proposed walks having been mapped out in this way, the 
soil should be removed from the space to be used for walks, to 
the depth of about eight to ten inches. This soil may be used 
for filling up the low places in other parts of the garden. The 
remainder of the- garden should all be dug over; if the soil is 
poor, it should be enriched with manure prior todigging; now 
mark off by the aid of rope and stakes one of the accepted de- 
signs for flower beds. When correct the outlines should be 
made permanent by sodding; obtain suflicient sods or green 
turf about two and one-half inches thick and six to ten wide, 
to make a border all around the bed close to the line or rope, 
being careful to keep the outline perfect and distinct. Tliese 
sods should be beaten severely with the back of the spade, to 
unite the sod with the soil, so that the roots of the grass will 
not dry out, but will root into the soil underneath. All the 
beds will be laid out and arranged in the same way. The 
border on either side of the walks should also be sodded, and 
if the sods can be had in abundance, all the remainder of the 
garden not being used for walks or flower beds may be covered 
with them, care being taken that the sods are of uniform 
thickness, so that the surface will be comparatively smooth 
and level. If, however, the sods are not easilj^ obtainable, the 
flower beds and walks may be edged or bordered with bricks 
or fancy tiles ; they look quite novel, but to our taste are not 
nearly so pretty as the beautiful green hue of the grass. If 
only suflacient sods can be procured for bordering purposes, 
lawn grass seed may be sown on the remainder at the rate of 
four bushels to the acre. Most all seedsmen have the different 
grass seeds that are suitable for lawn making in mixture, 
under the general name of lawn grass. This should be sown 
early in the spring, so that it may have the benefit of the 



56 



spring showers, and make a good growth before the hot dry 
July days come ; indeed by that time the grass should need 
mowing. 

The Walks. These have already been laid out and 
bordered, and the good soil removed from them. The surface 
of the walks should be about two inches below the surface of 
the border; to All them up to this distance will be next in 
order. The surface may be paved, cemented, or fine gravel 
may be used. The walk should be filled with sufficient coarse 
gravel t-o raise it with whatever is used for the surface, to the 
required height. 



67 



CHAPTER XIY. 

PLANTING OF FLOWER BEDS. 

We are now almost ready to plant our flowers, but one 
small operation Is yet necessary to make the beds ready for 
•their Intended occupants. The beds should be somewhat 
higher than the general level of the surroundings. In digging 
the beds the soil should be slightly raised in the centre and 
gradually fall to the border, at which point it should be about 
two inches below the level of the top of the sod. The object in 
raising the centre Is to show the plants more prominently. 
Be careful that this be not carried to such an extreme that all 
the water will drain ofl". The objects in recommending that 
the soil at the border of the bed be Zoi^er than the surroundings, 
are: 1st. It keeps the outlines plain and distinct, and to a 
great extent prevents the grass from encroaching upon the 
space occupied by the flower bed. This having been done, the 
beds are ready for planting. This Is a very important opera- 
tion ; not that it requires a great amount of skill to remove a 
plant from a pot and put it in a hole in the ground, but because 
in order to produce a beautiful eflect we musst use judgment in 
the arrangement of our plants. To be enabled to use this judg- 
ment we must be acquainted with the habits and colors of the 
flowers of the plants we intend using. We have frequently 
seen handsome plants bedded out by novices who had no idea 
what the plants would grow to be ; all they knew about them 
was that they looked pretty in the greenhouse, and they should 
look pretty in the garden. The plants were all about the same 
size, and from this (if at all) the inference was drawn that ther 
all grew with the same rapidity. The result of this promiscu- 
ous planting was that some of the tender plants died, and the 
rapid growing varieties smothered the weaker, thus making 
the bed, instead of a thing of beauty and pride, an irregular 
mass of confusion and a constant reminder that our ideal 
flower bed is a miserable failure. Without stopping to inquire 
into or investigate the why and the wherefore of this failure, 
the disappointed novice declares that he or she '* cannot grow 
plants to make them look as pretty as Mr. A's or Mrs. B's, aud 



58 



if I can't have them as preity as any other person, I won't have 
them at all.'' This Is why many persons do not grow plants 
because " the plaJits don't do right." My dear reader, the plants 
will grow themselves, if you give them half a chance. The 
fault lies with the cultivator; through his ignorance the plants 
are cruelly treated, and because they do not show their grati- 
tude they " don't do right ; and I won't bother with them any 
more." If the above has been your experience, my advice is to 
study well the requirements and hab;is of plants in every sense 
of the word. Know j'our plants, treat them well, and they will 
prove a source of unceasing and unalloyed pleasure, but wc. 
have only been speaking of wrong doing and the results of it ; 
let us see how we can do these things right in regard to bedding 
out our plants. 

There are a number of styles of arranging different habited 
plants in the garden. These are popularly known as the " Rib- 
bon Lines," "Massing,'' "Sub-Tropical,'' "Carpeting," and the 
old way of "Mixing."' Each of these modes has its advantages, 
and perhaps none of them can be dispensed with. The reader, 
in order to properly decide which will be most appropriate, 
must take into consideration the surroundings and the extent 
of the garden. We can make good use of the design employed 
in laying out the garden. With this design and a box of water 
color paints, procured at a nominal cost from any stationer, 
we can paint tlie flower beds any color or colors desired. By this 
we can see what our garden will be. If the arrangement does 
not suit, or the colors do not harmonize, it will be an easy mat- 
ter to make any change that seems to be necessary, We can 
also by this process learn just what kinds of plants we need 
and how many of each, to make our garden complete. In col- 
oring our design and in making the selection, if the space and 
circumstances will permit, it might be advisable to have a 
specimen bed of each style of arrangement, as the whol: will 
have rather an informal though none the less fascinating ap- 
pearance. 

PtiBBON LiN-E«. This name is given to that style of bed_ 
ding wherein the plants of each are arranged in a line by using 
plants whose flowers or foliage form a strong contrast with 
those in the line in front and those in the line behind, the most 
charming eff'ect may be produced. There is a great variety of 
plants suitable for forming Hibbon Line beds, principal among 



59 



which may be mentioned Canna's Achyranthes, Coleus, Cen- 
taureas, Ornamental Grasses,Geraniums, Sal vias, Golden Fever- 
few, Alternanthera, etc. In a bed of this description the plants 




SECTION OP FLOWER BED, RIBBON LINE STYLE. 

must be properly arranged at the time of planting, tl^is in refer- 
ence to the habit and growth of the plants. If only one side c-^ 
the bed is exposed, the tall growing plants must be planted at 
the back", the next tallest in the next row, and so on down to 
the outside or border line, which should not be more than six 
inches in height. During the summer the tops of someof the?e 
plants will require to be pinched out ; this will cause the plants 
to branch out and make the plants in the bed more compact : 
but this is only a secondary consideration ; the principal object 
in pinching out the tops is to keep the plants at their proper 
height in comparison with the row in front and behind, so 
that the whole bed will present a uniform appearance, gently 
sloping from the back down to the front. If both sides of the 
bed are exposed, the same plants should be used on either sides. 
This style is not confined to long beds where only straight lines 
can be used. It can be employed in beds shaped like siars, 
shields, circles, hearts, etc., in fact, beds of almost any shape, 
though in most of these it will require moreskil] and precision 
in planting. 

MASSiifG. For this purpose such plants are used as are 
continuous bloomers, such as Geraniums, Verbenas, and many 
others we might name. Any one color is selected of a bed ; for 
instance, we might have one bed filled with Scarlet Geraniums, 
another with White or Purple Verbenas, another filled with 
Phlox Drummondi, mixed colors or any one color. It is usual, 



60 



however, to only have one color in each bed, as the " mass" is 
more attractive than if the colors are varied. 

Carpet Bedding. This mode of planting is}comparatively 
but little known in this countrj*, although it is extremely pop- 
ular in some parts of Europe, and no doubt will be in this 
country wiien it becomes more generallj' known. This style 
of bedding takes its name from the class of plants that are used, 
they all being of dwarf habit, and are planted so closely as to 
form a complete covering or carpet over the bed. Xone of the 
plants used for this purpose should be allowed to grow more 
than six Inches in height. Those generally used are Alternan- 
thera, Artemesia, Lobelia, Pansies, Moneywort, Ivies, Echeve- 
rias, Mesembryanthemums, etc., etc. As we havealreadj'intl- 
mated, the plants being of dwarf habit, it is requisite that they 
be planted quite thickly in order to produce a complete carpet' 
hence a goodl3^ number of plants must be used. This number 
we cannot give, as it will depend on the variety and growth 
of plants, as a " carpet " with holes in it is not at all pleasing 
anywhere. This mode s especially desirable if the flower 
beds are small and of fancy designs, or if the design is composed 
of a number of flower beds the outlines of which it is necessary 
to keep clear and distinct so that the desired effect of the whole 
may not be marred by any irregularity'. Some of the plants 
may require trimming during^the summer; this should not be 
neglected, but should rather be done just as soon as necessary. 

Sub-Tropical Garden. This is composed of very rapid 
growing plants, natives of tropical countries, which in our 
short seasons produce such majestic specimens of tropical lux- 
uriance that they in imagery carrj' us to climes where it is al- 
ways summer and the air is laden with the aroma of some of our 
most delicious fruits and flowers. These plants, of which the 
Cannas, Ricinus and Caladium Esculentum are types, may be 
planted in groups or singly in I'ich earth, or they may be ar- 
ranged somewhat in Ribbon Line shape, as the taste may 
dictate. 

Mixed. The modes of planting heretofore described are 
only suitable for those who have room for quite a large number 
of plants and who can afford to spend a part of their wealth in 
this way. There is another class of people whose love for 
flowers would be unlimited, and if their purses would permit 
they would have an excellent collection, but their means will 
only admit of the possession of a few. And the question now 



61 



before us is, How can these be arranged to show to the best ad- 
vantage? Arrange them, the tallest growers at the back or in 
the centre of the bed, as recommended in " Ribbon " garden- 
ing, the smallest in front, keeping in mind how the plants will 
look when in bloom, to see if the colors of flowers and foliage 
will form a proper contrast. This is all we can do, but if this 
Is well done we shall receive as much pleasure from our few 
plants as those who are favorea with broad acrea teeming with 
beauty and fragrance. 



62 



CHAPTER XY. 

SOWING THE SEED AND . MANAGEMENT OF 
SEEDLINGS. 

Perhaps in no department of floriculture have we heard of 
so many failures and so manj" complaints as in the seed 
business, and we are not surprised at this. There are two 
great causes for these failures : Ignorance on the part of the 
cultivator, and (we don't like to use the word, but suppose we 
must,) dishonesty on the part of the seedsmen. Now to ex- 
plain : Seeds are in many respects peculiar; there is as great 
a difference in them as there is in the members of the human 
family. So in order that we may grow them successfully we 
must understand at least the most prominent traits in their 
character. The catalogue of almost every seedsman in the 
country will give you this information : It will tell you the 
nature, habit, growth, etc. ; with this information, together 
with what general remarks we may make, may give some 
light on the subject that we hope may prove beneficial. Look- 
ing at the subject in this waj^, it is not surp^-ising to us to hear 
that a person who sowed Begonia, Calceolaria or Gloxinia 
seeds in the open border in May, had utterly failed; indeed it 
would be more surprising to hear that he had succeeded. Yet 
the seed may have been as good as ever had been sown, and 
would undoabtedly have germinated under favorable circum- 
stances, but through /6^?io?-ance on the part' of the cultivator, 
the good seeds did not give satisfaction. 

During the past few years, owing to an endeavor to increase 
their business and to make more money, many old seeds that 
have lost their vitality have been sold, and to defeat the ends 
of justice, some seedsmen have placed a disclaimer on their 
seed bags or packets to the etTect that it was mutually agreed 
that the seller was not to be held responsible for any damage 
that might occur by the failure of the seeds to grow. This is a 
declaration that the seller ^-as in doubt about the article, and 
for this reason dare not warrant them, and if you buy them, 
you buy them at your own risk. What would you think of 
your clothier or shoe dealer who would make you such an 
answer. Many seeds are now sent to every village and hamlet 



63 



in the land to be sold on commission ; this rate of commission 
ranges from forty to seventy per cent, on all sales, the unsold 
seeds to be returned at the close of the season, to be sent out 
the next season in the same manner. This mode is a fraud on 
the American people, and it should be abolished. To every 
reader of this we desire to say emphatically : Don't buy seeds 
from any firm who send seeds out to be sold on commission ; 
if you do you will regret it. The catalogues usually divide 
flower seeds into four principal classes: Annuals, Biennials? 
i'erennials and Greenhouse. 

Sowing the Seeds. When it is desired to have the plants 
in bloom real early in the season, the seeds should be sown in 
pots or shallow boxes in March or April ; till the pot or box 
two-thirds full of broken pots, moss, charcoal or any other 
substance that water will readily drain through; cover this 
with one or two inches of soil composed of one part loam, two 
pares leaf soil and one part sand thoroughly mixed and pulver- 
ized ; on this bow the seeds and cover them with the same 
compost to the depth of about twice the diameter of the seed, 
not more. They should now be watered with a fine sprinkler, 
and from this time the soil should never be allowed to become 
dry; the surface may be lightly covered with fragments of 
Sphagnum or moss ; this will prevent the rays of the sun from, 
drying and baking the soil : this must be removed as soon as 
the seedlings appear. The box may be covered with glass ; 
this will keep off the cold air, and greatly assist vegetation ; 
however, as soon as the seedlings appear, air should be ad- 
mitted freely. The box, as soon as the seed is sown, should be 
kept as nearly as possible in a temperature of from sixty to 
seventy degrees. As soon as the seedlings have developed the 
second pair of leaves, they should be pricked out either into 
boxes or small pots ; if put in boxes they should be planted 
from two to four inches apart or planted singly in pots; shade 
from the sunlight until the3" have fully recovered, then place 
them close to the glass to incite a strong, sturdy growth. As 
soon as all danger from frost is passed, plant them out in the 
prepared border, where they are to bloom. In sowing, re- 
member that soaking for several hours in warm water will 
greatly hasten the germination of all hard shelled seed!=, such 
as Cypress "Vine. Cannas, etc. By removing the cottony husk 
from Abronia, Globe Amaranth and other like seeds, the ger- 
mination will be greatly facilitated. When we do not desire 
to have the plants in bloom early, we may defer sowing the 



64 



seeds until the increasing heat of the sun warms the earth, 
when they may be sown in a prepared bed in the garden, in 
the same way as described for sowing in boxes; the aft^r 
treatment will be the same, except that in pricking them out, 
they may be planted where they will ultiinately bloom. 
However, the seeds of what are known as Greenhouse plants 
should not be sown in the garden ; they are too delicate to 
bear this, and must be carefully attended. 



65 



CHAPTER XYL 



SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTURE OF PLANTS 
AND BULBS. 

EXPIiANATIO^T. 

Ligbt — I full sunlight ; 2 morning sun only ; 3 shade. 

Moisture— 1 abundant; 2 moderate; 3 sparingly. 

H is for those suited for house or pot culture only. 

B is for those suited chiefly for bedding purposes. 

HB is for those suitable for both house and bedding culture. 



Name of Plant. 



Soil 



c o 



Abutilon.... ^ 

Acalphia 

Achania 

Achillea 

Achyranthus 

Agapanthus 

Agave... « 

Ageratum 

Akebia « 

Aloe 

Aloysla 

Alternanthera 

Alyssum 

Amarj^lis 

Amorphophallis 

Ampelopsig 

Ardisia 

Arundo 

Aucuba 

Azalea 

Begonia Rex 

Begonia, Flowering 

Begonia, Tuberous : 

Bouvardia 

Caladium, Esculentum.. 

Caladium, Fancy 

Calla 

Camellia 

Canna 

Carnation 

Centaurea 

Centradenia 



2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 




B 


2 


HB 


2 


H 


3 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


3 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


B 


2 


HB 


1 


HB 


1 


HB 




B 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


H 



66 



Name of Plant. 



Soil. 



Cereus 

Chorozema 

Chrysanthemum 

Cissns 

Clerodendron 

Cobea , 

Cocoloba 

Coleus 

Croton 

Cuphea 

Cyclamen 

Cyperus 

Cypripedium 

Dahlia....^ 

Daisy 

Daphne 

Deutzia 

Dianthus 

Dielytra 

Dracenas 

Echeveria 

Epiphyllum 

Erianthus 

Eucharis 

Euonymus 

Euonymus 

Euphorbia 

Farfugium 

Ferns 

Feverfew 

Ficus 

Fittonia 

Fragraria 

Fuchsia 

Funkia... 

Gardenia 

Gazania 

Geraniums, Double & Single. 
Geraniums, Golden Tricolor. 

Geraniums, Silver Tricolor 

Geraniums, Scented 

Geraniums, Ivy Leafed.... 

Gladiolus 

Gloxinia 

Heliotropes 

Hibiscus 

Hollyhocks 

Hoya 

Hydrangea 

Isolepsis 



I ! 50 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 



2 


H 


2 


HB 


2 


H 


1 


H 


2 


H 


2 


B 


2 


HB 


2 


H 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


H 


3 


HB 


2 


H 


2 


B 


3 


H 


2 HB 


2 


HB 


2 


H 


2 


H 


2 


H 


2 


HB 


y 


HB 


2 


H 


2 


H 


2 


HB 


2 


B 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


H 


2 


HB 


2 


H 


2 


HB 


2 


HB 


2 


B 


2 


H 


2 


B 


2 


H 



67 



1 

Xarne of Plant. { J 

\? 


Soil. 


X 


5 


1 


Culture. 
Moisture. 


Iw, English 


1 

1 

3 
1 
1 
1 
1 
8 
1 
1 
1 
1 
3 
1 
1 
3 
2 
1 
3 
4 
1 
1 
3 
8 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 
3 
3 
2 
3 
1 
1 
3 
1 
3 
1 
3 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
3 
1 








1 

2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
J 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 
1 
3 
2 

i 
1 

2 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 

; 

1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 

i 

1 
3 
2 


40 
ou 

50 
50 
40 
50 
oo 


2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 iHB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 B 
2 H 
2 HB 
2 B 
2 H 
2 HB 
2 B 
2 HB 

2 H 

3 HB 
2 H 

2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 B 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 B 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 H 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 B 
2 H 
2 HB 
2 H 
2 HB 
2 H 

1 HB 

2 HB 
2 B 

2 H 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 HB 
2 H 
2 H 


Ivv Parlor 








Jasniinuni 








Justicia 




2 


1 
1 


Konio'a ... 




XiagerstrsGmia 








Ijantana 








Liibonia 







1 


Lilium 


Lily of ttie Vallev 








Jjinaria 








45 
45 
40 

50 


Lobelia 








liOnicera 








Lycopodiuni . . . 




2 


1 


Ly siniacbia 




jSIadoira Vine 








50 
50 
60 
50 
60 
50 
50 
40 
45 
50 
55 
40 
60 
50 
45 
50 
45 
50 
50 
ov 
40 
45 
50 
60 
45 
50 


Mali^rnia 




2 

2 


1 
1 


Maranta 




JVIesembrvantlienium 




Myrsiphvlluni 




i 


1 
1 


Myrtus 




Isierembergia 






Oleander 








Otbonna 




2 
2- 
1 


1 
1 
1 


Oxalis 




Palms 


1 


Pseonie^ 


Pan dan us 


i 


1 


1 


Panicnm 


Pansv 








Passiflora 




2 
2 
2 
2 


1 
1 

1 
1 


Pelar^^onium 




Peper oin i a 




Peri s tropin e 




Petunia 




Phlox 


Pilea 




2 


1 
...... 

1 








Pomegranate 








3 


1 












60 
50 
40 
50 
45 
45 
50 
60 










Saxifraga 


Scuttellaria 




1 






















2 
2 


1 
1 




1 



68 



Name of Plant. 



Stevia.... 

Thyme 

Tigridia 

Tradescantia 

Tritoma 

Tuberose 

Vallotta 

Verbena 

Veronica 

Vinca 

Violets 

Yucca 

Zephranthes. 



Soil. 



1— j 






Q 




H-( 

?3 

r" 


















6 




1 


5^ 


2 


HR 


1 


4o 


o 


HB 


1 


6-1 


o 


HB 


2 


50 




H 


1 


50 


2 


HB 


1 


60 


2 


HB 


1 


50 


2 H 


1 


40 


2 


B 


1 


50 


2 


HB 


1 


50 


2 


HB 




40 


2 


R 


? 




2 ' 


B 


1 


50 


2 


HB 




NEW BEIGHTOJSr, 

BEAVER CO., - ------- PEISnST'A. 

Are a permanent institution, o^vned and carried on by 

THOMAS ELVERSON. 

Who makes a Specialty of growing Plants for Shipment by 
Mail and Express to all parts of the 

UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 

For this purpose we endeavor to have, at all times, strong, 
stockj', well-rooted plants, grown in as cool a temperatnre as 
possible Being in this condition, they are better prepared to 
endure a long journey than if raised in a higher temperature. 
After years of experience we succeed so well in packing our 
Plants for safe carriage, that it is a rarity for our plants to be 
damaged in transit except by delays or unusually rough usage. 

OTJS. CD:Bcr:E2(OT is to I^JLIs:E 

FINE PLANTS 

AND SELL THEM CHEAP. 

We endeavor to keep up to the times, and are constantly 
adding to our large collection all new plants of merit, our 
prices of which will be found exceeding low. 

In our Catalogue we offer a full line of Florists Stock' 
CONSISTING UF 

• PLANTS, BULBS AND SEEDS, 

All of which may be relied upon as being the best the market 
affords. Our seeds are procured fresh every season, direct 
from the growers, and can be relied upon, if properly treated. 

Our Descriptive Catalogue mailed free to all applicants. 

Address, 

THOS. ELVERSON, 

HILLSIDE CB-HEEIsTHOtTSES, 

NEW BEIGHTON, 

BEAVER CO , - - - - - PENN'A. 



Diameter at Top, 14 Inches. We have, in connection 

with our business, been sup- 
plying our customers with a 
superior quality of 




I 



. TERRA com 

Consisting in part of 

f Flowerpots! 

J ~ LAWN AXD PARLOR 

[ RUSTIC AND FANCY 

Window FotSy Bulb Foil 

FERN STANDS, &C, 

These Goods are manufactured of the finest Fire Clay, very 
neatly finislied and artistically painted. A mineral paint is 
used, and is burned on (except on those painted wliite) so that 
it is not affected by the weather. It'can be washed as easil}^ as 
anj" glazed ware; it is adapted for growing all kinds of plants, 
not being glazed or painted inside- We have made arrange- 
ments w^ith tlie Manufacturers so that we can offer these goods 
to our customers in any quantity at the Factory Price. All 
orders sent direct to me will receive prompt attention. 

MANUFACTURER"^ ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE 
Mailed free on receipt of stamp to pay postage. 

The engraving above represents our No. 21 Vase. We will 
deliver this Vase, painted white, securely packed, at either 
freight or express office here for two dollars. 

Address all orders to 

THOS. ELVERSON, 

New (Brighton, (Pa. 



